You can do it, but it's more than just installing the right water pump. Ford
the external parts of the 302\5.0 quite a bit between pre 1978 to 1979 and
Let's see if my memory is any good. The long block essentially is the same.
the "new" motor is NOT an HO you need to use the "old" style: Timing cover,
pump, harmonic balancer(??), pulleys, accessories, and brackets.
If you are staying with a carb, the intake will obviously be different as will
oil pan and pickup tube. You will need to use the old pieces.
Use your old exhaust manifolds. There are air injection ports (smog pump) at
rear of each head that will have to be plugged. They are usually tapped and can
be capped off with pipe plugs.
The spark plugs will be a different size and thread pitch. You'll need to do
cross referencing to find the correct plugs. (small plugs with a narrow gap for
point type ignition, in the correct heat range).
I don't think you can do this with an HO motor but I don't recall why and
wrong. The firing order is different but IIRC there are other mechanical
Maybe someone with more knowledge or a better memory will chime in on this. Of
part of what makes an HO an HO is the fuel injection. If you are going to use
injection, regardless of which engine you have, I would stay with the newer
train. (FI is a great mod for an older car. It takes a bit of work though).
In short, strip your "new" motor down to the long block (block, heads, and
reciprocating assembly). Install all of the missing parts from your old motor.
As for deleting the power steering, the only advantage on a driver is fewer
the steering system. Again with the memory thing, I think the 68 had "linkage"
power steering. There is an external hydraulic ram and a control valve on the
link, as opposed to a recirculating ball steering box. There are lots of places
leak and parts are (used to be?) pricey.
On a race car, it would be less load on the engine and less weight.
If you are going to drive the car for pleasure I would suggest keeping the
steering if you can. Have you ever driven a car without it? Many folks today
Down the road is ok, but parking lots can be a bit of a challenge. There's a
that power steering became standard equipment ;)
Good luck with your swap. That Ranchero is a way cool ride, I've always wanted
There is a fellow who posts updates here about restoring a 1966 Ranchero XL.
On Tue, 3 Oct 2006 18:31:41 -0700, "Terry Kangas"
<kterryatpacifier.com> wrote:>I have a 1988 5.0 out of a LTD that I want to put in my 1968 Ranchero. But I
IIRC, you have to change both the water pump and the front
cover along with the drive pulleys. You must also use the
correct damper for the engine as they are balanced
differently. IOW, you cannot interchange the damper between
the two. The so-called adapter to convert to manual
steering is just an idle pulley to replace the PS pump.
If your Ranchero has PS, I suggest you simply have a
pressure hose made to use the late 5.0L pump. The steering
gearbox won't know the difference. All that said, there
really is no reason to use your old auxilliary drive system
unless you are concerned with appearance. The later
serpentine drive is superior and you won't have to worry
about all those changes tothe engine. If you don't use the
air pump, just get a shorter belt which are readily
available. The alternator setup is easily adaptable to your
The biggest reason to use the "old " accessory system is that his existing
cover has different mount points for the accessories and his 1988 (EFI) timing
doesn't have a hole for the fuel pump to mount to. He'd have to find a 1979 or
timing cover from a carbureted vehicle, pretty tough these days (late 80s VV
cop car? IIRC those were the last) Other than that, I agree that the newer PS
alternator, and serpentine belt system is way preferable.
Terry, if you swap the timing covers, make sure the camshaft on the 88 motor
the fuel pump eccentric bolted to it. It looks like a metal cup bolted to the
the camshaft timing gear, look at your old motor. Many EFI motors (all that I've
seen) still had it bolted on there, but Ford may have deleted it at some point.
safe than sorry.
Thanks for all the input.
Long story , short,,, bought the 5.0 first, it came with all the accesories
and wiring. Then picked up a 1988 5.0 HO with an AOD transmission, but no
accesories out of a Lincoln. So I'm putting the HO in my wifes Jag with the
accesories and wiring from the 5.0 and the 5.0 into my Ranchero which had a
bad engine. Naturally the engine swap budget is going to favor the wife's
jag, so I'm trying to keep costs down on the Ranchero. That's why I'm trying
to use the old 302 accesories and pulleys on the 5.0 engine. I've redrilled
the crankshaft v-belt pulley to fit on the 5.0 balancer, but if I use the
5.0 water pump it will turn backwards, so thats why I wanted to use the old
302 water pump. I can get an electric fuel pump fairly cheap, and I've lined
up a 4-barrel intake manifold ($20.00) and 600 cfm Holley ($1.00) that way I
won't need to change the front cover. I hope! Any thing I'm missing here?
Oh and when I'm done with these, I've got a 1956 Willys pickup that needs a
new engine. I'm thinking about a ford flathead v-8. I've seen it done and it
looks like it was made for the truck. Hoping to retire in a couple of years
so I can devote more time to important things like this!!!
The old accessories won't bolt up to the new style timing cover. There are
differences also. Its been quite some time since I've actually swapped a 1979+
into an older car so I'm vague on the details. The one thing I know for certain
that if you use the old accessories, you have to use the old timing cover due to
different accessory mount points and pulley alignment issues. You're not saving
anything by reusing the new style cover. The gasket set is ~$10-15.
Just a note on the HO\AOD combo from the Lincoln... If it is from a Mark VII
trans is ~1" longer overall than all other AODs of that vintage. It's unique to
Mark VII. Make sure to figure this into your calculations for drive shaft
difference is in the tail shaft and housing.
You are correct, Tom. There are quite a few details I
didn't even start to cover or even think about at the time
of my response. I think if it were mine, and it is intended
to be a daily driver, I would use as musch of the more
modern stuff including the EFI system as possible. A bit
more work perhaps but very rewarding results. A local
fellow built a "66 Stang 2+2 a few years ago using a '92
Stang donor for everything he could including the 5 speed
which he later upgraded to an aftermarket 6 speed unit. He
got great satisfaction driving the car almost every day and
took great pleasure in nailing a coupe of late model "Stangs
in the stop light gran prix. He also was getting much
better fuel mileage than the original
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