2000 Ranger 6-cylinder Auto Trans AC Compressor Does Not Kick In

Aug 17, 2009 27 Replies

Not on AC or MAX. Blower motor working, Checked for voltage at AC compressor plug and nothing. Jumpered the AC pressure switch still nothing.. Checked fuses on interior side panel and relay inside engine box (driver's side fender area) by swapping. Is there another fuse / relay area that I'm missing ?


Is there voltage to the compressor clutch? If not check the relay.

Have you charged the AC system with a fresh load of R134a?

I'm not certain that will fix yoru problem, but it should. The AC will refuse to operate if the R134 runs low. I would expect the fan to at least blow, but if the system goes into failsafe and refuses to operate, the fan could go down with it.

Your post indicates that the fan operates in the non-AC modes, so that tells me the fan works, so I'd not be looking to the electrical system yet.

You can buy cans of R134a from the autoparts store. Be sure to buy one that has a gauge on it, because this is how you will know that you need R134 or not. The directions for loading a can of R134 are very easy to follow.

Probably what the OP is missing is that the refridgerant is low and the low pressure swtich has opened so the compressor won't engauge.

That's what I was thinking too.

I'm scratching my head over the claim that the fan does not blow. Even if the compressor was locking itself out, it seems like the fan should blow.

Forgot to add that I placed the can of R134a with gauge and pressure read good. Interior blower working on all speeds and dial on AC or MAX/ AC has no compressor action, No voltage at the compressor connector. Also tried to jumper the low pressure switch connector and still no kick in. Checked relay too that appears Ok as I swtiched it

Forgot to add that I placed the can of R134a with gauge and pressure read good. Interior blower working on all speeds and dial on AC or MAX/ AC has no compressor action, No voltage at the compressor connector. Also tried to jumper the low pressure switch connector and still no kick in. Checked relay too that appears Ok as I swtiched it

================ You have one of three things. The clutch has failed. The pressure switch has failed (or the pressure is not what you think). Or there is no power to the system, which can be the switch has failed or there really is no power.

By the line of questioning, I think it's time to visit the AC repair shop.

================

Trying to confirm the # of A/C related fuses & relays.

1 A/C Relay 1 WOT (Wide Open Throttle) Relay 1 Interior (driver side) dash panel fuse

Does this seem correct ?

Well, it looks like some good old-fashioned trouble shooting is the next step. Ensure you have power at the control switchs. If you do, follow the power to its next place, and check there. Eventually you'll find the problem.

But the OP reports that the fan does blow on other settings.

I'm not having any problems beyond wondering what the OP is claiming. All I can see is a massive making-the-problem-bigger-than-it-is.

Oh crap, I attributed what you said:

"Forgot to add that I placed the can of R134a with gauge and pressure read good. Interior blower working on all speeds and dial on AC or MAX/"

as being from the original poster!

But I think the OP did say:

" Not on AC or MAX. Blower motor working,"

if I read the quoted sections above correctly. I guess since the OP has not come back we're just shooting blanks anyway.

Sorry the wording should read no cold air on A/C or MAX A/C but inside blower motor is working (no clutch activation on the compressor...no voltage there and none when shorting the pressure swtich.

Sorry the wording should read no cold air on A/C or MAX A/C but inside blower motor is working (no clutch activation on the compressor...no voltage there and none when shorting the pressure swtich.

====== Go to an AC shop. You have no pressure.

Did one final test. Jumpered the high pressure swtich and the compressor did kick in today.

Did one final test. Jumpered the high pressure swtich and the compressor did kick in today.

That means you need to add a c an of juice.

Did one final test. Jumpered the high pressure swtich and the compressor did kick in today.

=============

If the high pressure switch kicked the compressor off, then it probably has air/moisture in the system. If that's the case, you'll need to find the leak and fix it, then pull a vacuum on the system, make sure it holds that vacuum, then recharge it.

SC Tom

Jeff, not sure what news reader you are using, but you may want to consider switching to Thunderbird or Agent. Your replies are mangled so that it is almost impossible to see where you are writing and where the prior poster has written.

Dat said, no question he's low on refridgerant!

On Wed, 19 Aug 2009 18:40:57 -0400, PeterD rearranged some electrons to say:

He's using Outhouse Express, according to his headers. Wow, big surprise.

I'd be happy to change a setting ot two or three. I've heard that complaint from other Google Groups posters recently. I've not made any changes, and my posts are not mangled when I Reply to posts that come from other places.

I'm thinking Google Groups is the culprit, buk I'd entertain making changes to the settings I have. I have absolutely no interest in ThunderBird, so don't even go there ...

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