new water pump

thanks for your reply.

I checked the coil wirte last night and it seems to be ok.

I tried starting the truck a few more times, and noticed there was a coolant leak underneath...very slight drip. so i pulled the fan, shroud, powersteering pump and noticed a small puddle of coolant on top of the new pump. I snugged up the bolts again - put everything back in, and am still having the same issue. I'm worried that I might have cracked the block when I installed the new water pump? I put plenty of silicon on the gasket, and the hoses are snug - the coolant is coming from somewhere.

if there was a small crack where you mount the pump to the engine, could it be the problem?

thanks again, d

On Tue, 04 May 2004 20:40:35 -0700, adamscreek rearranged some electrons to form:

I would doubt that the problems are related to the water pump. Are you sure you reconnected everything?

Remember the basics of internal combustion: fuel, air, spark.

Pull a plug wire off one of the plugs, hold the end of it near something metal, and crank. See if you can get a spark.

I would STILL bet on something simple (loose coil primary or something along those lines).

David, After reading your post, i went over the ignition system with as friend. There is no spark coming from the coil - the coil has power on it's input, but is not delivering the spark.

So, I went ahead and changed the eec module thinking that may have gone haywire - still have the same problem. Is there another type of sensor that talks to the eec mod. and tells it what interval/rotation the engine is cranking at??? I'm thinking i'll try to replace the coil, hopefully that does it?

any input welcomed! thanks to everyone who has replied.

Before replacing the eec, I'd have checked the wires to the coil first, then the coil itself. If those checked out, I'd have checked the OBDI for a pending code. If all that passed, fuel delivery would probably be next on my list.

On Mon, 10 May 2004 07:57:09 -0700, adamscreek rearranged some electrons to form:

TFI module on the distributor is notorious for failing. However, changing the water pump probably had nothing to do with it. Some of your bigger auto parts stores used to test those things for free. If you replace it, be sure to follow the instructions closely, including using the heat sink grease that should come with it.

If you disconnect the coil and check the primary side with an ohmmeter, you should read continuity through it. I'm not sure what the reading should be, but it should be pretty low, less than 10 ohms I bet.

I'm still betting on something simple though, like you knocked a connector loose whilst replacing the water pump.

It's alive!!!

Picked up a TFI module, but before I plugged it in...i messed with the exsisting module making sure it wasn't loose. It fired on the first try. Then the rpms went wacky and the truck eventually died. I checked for a spark on distributor, and found none. So I decided to replace the tfi...and it been working like a champ.

I really want to say thanks thanks to everyone, for their input and ideas.