4l60e transmission

Can't help you with your problem, but just to let you know I have a 96 chevy pick up 4.3 engine. 256,000 miles, transmission still original. Flushed it about 3 times.

I'm thinking a dealer or good shop can read any problems with a scan tool.

Well - why not get it scanned and get the solenoids checked? Contrary to what you state, the 4l60e does not require rebuild frequently - or at

100,000 miles. These things typically run forever as long as they get decent tranny service. How frequently do you get your filter and fluid changed? Hell for most people the better question is how frequently do you even look at the tranny dipstick?

Thats the good thing with the 4L60Es, they dont require a rebuild at anytime, unlike the troublesome 700R4s were.

Since when? I have a 89 4x4 burb I bought new with 175K miles on it and tranny still works good as new. It has 3.73 gears and stock tires and a small aux cooler since day one. It has been across the country and the rockies more than a dozen times (as recently as 2003) and is going back out to CO in summer 06. The only "trouble with a 700R4 was which the owners putting lifts and big tires with stock tall tires and straining tranny beyond design limits and then when it failed they blamed tranny, not themselves for doing a slow cook of it.

Adam wrote:

Maybe your lucky, I had an 86 and 87 Jimmy with 2.8 all stock, no big tires, stock engine, no lift, never pulled, and since I bought both the trucks I had problems, the 86 was 2x4 and the 87 was a 4x4, the problem was always that cable that went from the throttle body to the tranny, it kept breaking and causing me misery. Maybe its just me or I got a bad apple, but I didnt like em'

The 700R4 reached its maturity in 87 and the 4L60 is basiscally little more than a 700R4 with a eletrinically controlled valve body as most of the parts interchange. Only when GM came out with 4L65 around 04 did a real differences appear and only if a few areas too.

ok guys more info for you had the tranny scanned and meter said all solenoids are switching like they are supposed to. However when up at hwy speeds it still will downshift to 4th and stay there till i come to stop. I chg my fluid and filter myself and at reg intervals 30k miles. I don't pull any loads all i do is hwy driving back and forth to work and it is not real hilly where i live so no constant shifting of th tranny to wear out parts sooner than needed May be a I got one that was built on a friday afternoon. haha

Catch me up if you will... by this, do you mean that the lock up is dropping out? If you gently apply the brake at highway speeds does the tach rise or not? Sorry if you've already answered this - I've lost track of the symptoms.

When you had the tranny rebuilt, did you replace the torque converter? How about when you first fire the truck up after it has sat for a couple of days? If you try to back it out of the garage immediately, does it want to move or is there a hesitation?

Have you had the VSS signal verified? The Vehicle Speed Sensor is the magical link to all things transmission. It's not completely uncommon to see some problems in this area. Most times it's as simple as cleaning the contacts. It takes a surprisingly little amount of contamination to foul the output of the VSS. It's a low current signal and general troubleshooting procedures for the VSS even include making sure the battery cables are clean and tight. More than one OD problem has been solved by simply cleaning the contacts on the VSS. Just use a piece of cardstock saturated with some solvent or tuner cleaner and wipe the contact areas thoroughly and repeatedly to clean them. You're not burnishing relay contacts here..

Finally - ignore any comments about the 700R. The 4L60E *is* the 700R with electronic controls. It's a workhorse that has proven itself over decades of use.

the trq convertoer got replaced with rebuild and and the tach does not rise when I hit the brake or at least I think it doesn't I 'll check again. As far as the VSS goes I 'll clean it maybe it got some dirt in it and its delaying the signal from telling computer to shift when it needs to. The tranny is dropping out of o/d when i get in o/d and hold a speed of 55mph or better for an extended amont of time like maybe a 3mile stretch then it starts to engage and disengage you can feel it, then it just drops out of o/d to 4th and won't go back in . Also when it has sat for a couple of days which is rare for me it does want to go in reverse w/o hesitation. hope this helps give a better explanation you know how stupid mx folks are

Thanks - now... one more request if I may. It's a real buster to try to follow the context of a thread - even when the post is in direct response to my own questions, without the included text. Maybe it's old age at work, but it seems most of us participate in enough different conversations in usenet forums that it takes a bit to figure things out in a post like yours. Life is so much simpler for the simple minded when your post includes the original text you're responding to, trimmed as appropriate.

Definitely check the lockup dropping out or not when you tap the brake. That's a critical one. Another area that occurred to me after I sent the last post was really out there, but probably should be considered. The lockup sees if you touch the brake and releases the lockup, much the same as cruise will drop out. I doubt it's relevant since you don't report cruise acting up, but it might be worth looking at the brake switch.

Post an update when you clean the contacts on the VSS and let us know how things stand.

the trq convertoer got replaced with rebuild and and the tach does not

Thanks - now... one more request if I may. It's a real buster to try to follow the context of a thread - even when the post is in direct response to my own questions, without the included text. Maybe it's old age at work, but it seems most of us participate in enough different conversations in usenet forums that it takes a bit to figure things out in a post like yours. Life is so much simpler for the simple minded when your post includes the original text you're responding to, trimmed as appropriate.

Definitely check the lockup dropping out or not when you tap the brake.

That's a critical one. Another area that occurred to me after I sent the last post was really out there, but probably should be considered. The

lockup sees if you touch the brake and releases the lockup, much the same as cruise will drop out. I doubt it's relevant since you don't report cruise acting up, but it might be worth looking at the brake switch.

Post an update when you clean the contacts on the VSS and let us know how things stand. Ok folks here it is cleaned the VSS and no joy with O/D fix. Checked the tach going up after brake tap and it was a no go as well when I did a test drive today also, you asked about reverse there is no delay when going into reverse. The lock up is part of the trq converter, correct me if iam wrong. I tried to accelerate today when it finally did go into O/D and the speed went up bu the RPM guage was barely moving or not moving at all. I am hoping this is just a rtq converter problem. The crz is not acting up it work just fine and when I hit brake pedal it does cut off crz. I will check the connection when I get home in am

Bryan

Mike tried the vss no joy with it also checked the brake pedal switch it works fine. When I am in O/D the tack does rise so trq converter comes out of lock up when it supposed to. The only issue I have is this thing when the truck starts up first thing the tranny won't go in o/d til truck gets warm and I have to come to complete stop. Only option I see I have left is to take off pan and see if th efilter has come out or maybe not in there just right. let me know if you have any other suggestions

Out of guesses - except that the issue with it not going into OD when it's first started up sounds like a leaky torque converter. That's why I asked if it responded immediately when you back it out of the garage in the morning. I'm at the point of wishing you good luck - you'll probably be best served taking it in for a look at a good tranny shop. Follow up though, and post what you end up finding is wrong. This is the kind of thing that is good to hear about once it's fixed.

Thanks for the help anyway I probably end up doing that anyway. I will let you know whne i get it fixed. it does go into to reverse right away first thing even when its cold. I 'll let you know thanks again to all others who posted

Mike

I think I solved my problem. Let me run this by you and all others see what you think b/c I was baffled and still am.

I took my 97 chevy truck 4.3l vortec v6 with 4l60e to shop and left it there for 4 days. the guy couldn't find anything wrong with it. we tried everything. We even put a thing called shaffer shifter on it, if you don't what that is, it is they basically diconnect the tranny from the the electronics of the pcm and then hook this machine up in its place to shift it according to the switch they throw. It is really cool wish I had one. Anyway the tranny worked fine disconnected from pcm and shifted on command when told to even went into to lock up as it should.

The next and obvious choice was to replace PCM, b'c if tranny shifts without PCM then it is command issue from a sensor or the PCM itself or so I thought, but I wasn't ready to come up with $200 for that. Shop guy thought it was the brake switch so we replaced it and it still would come out of lock up at 65 or better so no fix there. I took it home to decide what to do next. Here is where it gets fun I changed my rotor and ditributor cap since geting a eng misfire code and had already chged plugs and wires and the code never went away. Upon chging these I found one of the plug wires from ditributor had come loose or I didn't put it on tight enough to start with those darn worthless mx guys. I took it from test drive after chng cap and rotor and making sure all plug wires were connected good. THe darn thing shfted and never came out of lock up once all the while I tried to make it fail. I said well maybe just b/c its warm its doing it. I will do it again in morning when it cools down. So again I tried to make it fail and it wouldn't. I thought maybe org brake switch was bad so I put org back in to try and make it fail and it still worked went into lock up and stayed there just like it was supposed too. I am not exactly sure what the cap and rotor have to do with tranny shifting but my guess is that the spark control system was somehow feeding bad info to PCM and it commanded the tranny to come out of lock up due to not enough rpms somehow or the crankshaft sensor was feeding it bad your guess is as good as mine. Well anyway the tranny works with no rebuild or major cost associated with it. hope this helps all

Bryan shadetree mx

That tranny is controled by ECM and if engine is not runing correctly and providing proper data for ECM to use as to when to shift, it can function strangely.