There are Kits, a few good ones. Really what you need to be specific:
2.8 to Chevy Small Block motor mount kit.
Headman S-10 4x4 V8 headers.
Either a 4.3 transmission (used) or a adapter plate. The problem with the
adapter plate is the small torque converter size. Like 10 inches vs 13.
Which means it will tend to act like a stall converter.
A 85 to 95 Astro Van Steering shaft. Optional, but gives better clearance
around motor mount
A 4.3 Radiator front a 4x4 S-10
If you want serpentine belt, use S-10 4.3 4x4 stuff.
If you want to go FI use 1988 and up Chevy truck ECM, engine harness, TBI
with intake. To fit to a older block you angle pocket the holes.
The super easy way is to start with a 4.3 Truck, a lot less changing
over. Or to get a 4.3 truck for parts. Then you use motor mount adapters,
the 4.3 accessories, and it bolts in.
One ting you will have to do depending on the alignment of your trucks
body and frame, as well as year. You will have to dimple the fire wall for
clearance in a 4 cylinder or V6 truck. If you use 85 to 89 Caprice
Exhaust manifolds you have to dimple the firewall kick down where it meets
the floor pan and transmission tunnel. A cheat on that is to use a 3
inch body lift kit. Which gives you a good clearance for exhaust items.
Then with a body lift, and enlarged wheel openings in the front, you
can use 2WD 68-72 Cutlass 15x7 or 15x8 wheels. That will allow you to
mount 31x10.50x15 Heavy Lug tires.
Sweet, thank you so much. About my 4wd, will I have to change anything
with that? i.e., if I do the lift, will I need to get new driveshafts?
And do you have any suggestions on gear ratios for my axles? I assume I
would have to change them. Also, where would I find these kits? Once
again, thanks so much.
Shafts will depend on what type of lift and how far you go. The kit I
looked at drops the front diff, A-arm mounts, torsion bar crossmember
and shock mounts, flips the rear differential over the springs and gives
you 4" lift. Engine wise Jags that run has a nice kit for that allows
you to put just about any small block you want under the hood AND have
it look factory installed.
"rscoats" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
He's talking about a body lift, which lifts the body 2" or 3" above the
frame in order to give you more clearance with the swap. No suspension or
driveline mods needed since none of that is affected. About the only thing
to note is the extension of the shifter linkage if you're running an auto
Find out what gears you already have first. Trucks with the crappier engines
tended to come with decent gearing from the factory (to make up for the
crappy engine). 3.73s or lower (numerically higher) would be fine, although
you could probably get by with 3.42s after the swap.
Body lifts are fairly common (and cheap) and can be had just about anywhere.
I got mine from eBay.
With a body lift, you don't have to change your drive shafts. The
kits are available from Summit Racing, and most off road parts houses.
They are pretty inexpensive costing around $100.
The V8 conversion can be a bit high priced.
For gear ratio's, a lot of 2.8 trucks are 3.73, with posi-traction rear
diff's. There is a code is your glovebox on the RPO decal that will tell
you. 3.73 gears with 31 inch tall tires work well in S-10's off road.
The one problem you will have is your front diff is open. Front lockers,
like ARB air lockers cost a bit of money. But if you want to get serious
they are needed.
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