I'd say that on a 20yr old vehicle, if the axles are in good shape, the
Dorman boots would be the way to go. Dorman makes good products IMO.
One-piece boots would be prefererable, but.....
This probably doesn't help much. Maybe someone else will render their
Thanks for input. I think your right about the Quick boots, if they hold up
they are the way to go.
Just some added info: Quick boots are $20 ea, One-piece about $ 15 and the
axles are about $ 65.
Just a thought. I replaced my axle (Plymouth) and other than the
cost, approx $60.00, I would replace the axle a not just the boot.
You are going to have to take the axel out so why not do the whole
The boots themselves leave some thought as to their lasting. If your
previous boot was torn there may be some slight damage to the axle.
Anyway, if you are looking to save bucks and don't plan on keeping the
auto -- boot replacement is the way to go. Also, you may have to
purchase a plier to bind the metal strap on the boot increasing the
Hank from PA....
By the time you remove the tire, remove all the old boot and clamps then
clean out the dirt and grease and relube and bolt the split boot on you
could have changed both axles. Really.
You only have to jack the front up secure it on jackstands. Remove both
front tires, start on one side and remove the axle nut retainer pin and
the retainer. Remove the nut with an impact driver or air wrench. Take
the nut out to the end of the axle and hit it a couple times with a
rubber hammer or a dead blow. Steer the front to the opposite side
(i.e.. turn right if working on the drivers side).Then take out the
pinch bolt that holds the lower ball joint to the lower part of the
strut. use a pry bar to separate the joint. The axle should be able to
be pulled out of the hub now. To pull the axle out of the trans use the
bar between the tri-pot joint and the housing. One quick pull should pop
the axle free. Now just reverse the process. The outer nut gets torqued
to 70 foot pounds and the pinch bolt to 30. If your handy with tools and
pay attention to the book you can change a halfshaft in about 20
"Edge" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
Sounds pretty straight forward- I heard cleaning the joints is pain. I've
got the tools, I just don't have time for a 4 hour wrestling match.
A couple of quick questions: I haven't looked at the book yet, but do you
have to hold the control arm in position once the ball joint is free from
the strut or is the strut holding the control arm in position against the
spring force? I think the wheel bearings are sealed, so you don't have to
change seals/repack grease - true?
Thanks for the info.
Well for $130 and if you plan to keep the vehicle, I'd opt for replacing
the axles. If the boots have been torn for some time, probably the lube
is contaminated, if there is still any in there, and certainly there is
road-'stuff' in there too.....none of which is good for the axle
I was going by what I paid for one axle on my car....$200+.
The only downside to axle replacement is the time....which I am pretty short
off. Have you done an axle an GM A body FWD? BTW, the shop wants $220/side
for the axle and $85 per for the boot. I've heard you can clean and replace
the boot if the CV joint is worn and is not clicking. There's probably about
20K miles with torn boots, but there is only 69K on the car.
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