CV Boot Replacement on 83 Pontiac 6000

I am looking for some advice to repair the torn CV boots on an 83 Pontiac 6000 with large dia axles. The 3 options I know of are: 1) Dorman Bolted
Quick Boots 2) One piece boots 3) Replace the whole axle and boot assembly. I'd like to know if the Quick Boots are good enough or are the other options worth the added $ and labor.
TIA
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I'd say that on a 20yr old vehicle, if the axles are in good shape, the Dorman boots would be the way to go. Dorman makes good products IMO. One-piece boots would be prefererable, but.....
This probably doesn't help much. Maybe someone else will render their opinion...
Dave S(Texas)
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Thanks for input. I think your right about the Quick boots, if they hold up they are the way to go. Just some added info: Quick boots are $20 ea, One-piece about $ 15 and the axles are about $ 65.
Perry

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Perry,
Just a thought. I replaced my axle (Plymouth) and other than the cost, approx $60.00, I would replace the axle a not just the boot. You are going to have to take the axel out so why not do the whole job?
The boots themselves leave some thought as to their lasting. If your previous boot was torn there may be some slight damage to the axle.
Anyway, if you are looking to save bucks and don't plan on keeping the auto -- boot replacement is the way to go. Also, you may have to purchase a plier to bind the metal strap on the boot increasing the cost.
Hank from PA....

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Hank,
You can replace the Quick-boot without removing the axle, since it is a split design and bolts together. I just wonder how well the quick boots work. BTW, how long did your axle job take?
Perry

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By the time you remove the tire, remove all the old boot and clamps then clean out the dirt and grease and relube and bolt the split boot on you could have changed both axles. Really. You only have to jack the front up secure it on jackstands. Remove both front tires, start on one side and remove the axle nut retainer pin and the retainer. Remove the nut with an impact driver or air wrench. Take the nut out to the end of the axle and hit it a couple times with a rubber hammer or a dead blow. Steer the front to the opposite side (i.e.. turn right if working on the drivers side).Then take out the pinch bolt that holds the lower ball joint to the lower part of the strut. use a pry bar to separate the joint. The axle should be able to be pulled out of the hub now. To pull the axle out of the trans use the bar between the tri-pot joint and the housing. One quick pull should pop the axle free. Now just reverse the process. The outer nut gets torqued to 70 foot pounds and the pinch bolt to 30. If your handy with tools and pay attention to the book you can change a halfshaft in about 20 minutes.
--
Steve

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Steve,
Sounds pretty straight forward- I heard cleaning the joints is pain. I've got the tools, I just don't have time for a 4 hour wrestling match.
A couple of quick questions: I haven't looked at the book yet, but do you have to hold the control arm in position once the ball joint is free from the strut or is the strut holding the control arm in position against the spring force? I think the wheel bearings are sealed, so you don't have to change seals/repack grease - true?
Thanks for the info.
Perry

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then
you
both
and
Take
to
the
pop
torqued
and
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Sounds like the axles are the way to go.
Thanks again.

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Well for $130 and if you plan to keep the vehicle, I'd opt for replacing the axles. If the boots have been torn for some time, probably the lube is contaminated, if there is still any in there, and certainly there is road-'stuff' in there too.....none of which is good for the axle innards.
I was going by what I paid for one axle on my car....$200+.
DS
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The only downside to axle replacement is the time....which I am pretty short off. Have you done an axle an GM A body FWD? BTW, the shop wants $220/side for the axle and $85 per for the boot. I've heard you can clean and replace the boot if the CV joint is worn and is not clicking. There's probably about 20K miles with torn boots, but there is only 69K on the car.
Perry

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