That's what I don't get about the idea of sophisticated sensors detecting
when the oil needs changing. If it was that, wouldn't that same sensor be
better designed if it also turns off after it 'detects' that the oil is
I'd think it would be more along the lines of specific things the computer
already keeps track of. (Like the things previously mentioned... eng. temp,
speed, mileage, etc). Especially if you have to 'tell' the computer that you
changed the oil to get it to turn off the light.
It seems like it would be a trivial matter to put some kind of switch on the
drain plug or oil filter base that would trip when the plug or filter was
removed, and that signal could be used to reset the system.
I am not sure you are giving them enough credit stu. I don't claim to be the
almighty expert either. I think they measure operating hours, crank
revolutions and operating temperatures at a minimum and calculate useable
oil life from that data.
A computer chip monitors, the number of starts, RPM's, running
hours, engine temperature, (and a fifth parameter which escapes
me at the moment,) and does a calculation then illuminates the
email@example.com (larrymoencurly) wrote in message
Though the manual for my car claims the service light comes on based
on severity of use, it's always been at 7500 mile intervals as far as
I can tell. That doesn't mean it couldn't, or even doesn't, sense
things like cold operating time, etc.
The oil level sensor is a float which drives a couple of magnetic
reeds for mine. The original float got "oil-logged" and falsely
indicated low oil when it was hot.
Most new cars like honda's etc still use mileage as there indicator
light. Some also give you an option to change this number so the
indicator shows up after that number of miles driven. This is
particularly good because of different types of oil and driving
conditions we go through. I mostly use Synthetic oil and therefore
have to set my oil change either by 5000 miles, looks or 6 months
interval. It is a good idea to change it after 6 months anyways due to
the oxidation factors of the oil which kills the detergent in the oil
after it is first exposed to the air, it seems to hold up for only 6
months or so.
Some people go for over 3000 miles every oil change and I kinda
disagree with that in some ways, unless you know your driving
conditions. If you are a highway driver and use conventional oil then
I'm sure you can go way over 5000 miles or so. I have opened up
engines with 3000 miles regular oil changes with only normal city
driving being nasty inside with all kinds of sludge.
I would say follow the manufactures recommendations mostly because
those numbers are tested to work best on that particular car. As far
as type of oil is concerned, viscosity matters so go with manufactures
recommendations also. On mine I have seen better gas mileage with 5W-30
Mobil 1 synthetic.
firstname.lastname@example.org (larrymoencurly) writes:
Tend to disagree with your oil change mileages. Combustion is the
#1 progenitor of oil degradation (and I don't mean oxidation) and not
exposure to air per se. Heat resistance is part of the API & MilSpec tests
for oil validation (if you need a standards reference). The #2 cause is the
accumulation of combustion by-products washed during the lubrication process
that eventually degrades oil detergents and oil quality (i.e. the detergents
suspend dirt in solution). Hence the reason to change one's oil. Oils do
not "wear out" by oxidation and can be easily recycled >>
http://api-ep.api.org/quality/index.cfm?bitmask 2001005000000000 .
Not bringing a car's engine up to temperature, dust, poor tune, poor
filters, dirty gasoline and oil pollution (e.g. broken coolant gasket) all
shorten oil life. In warranty, follow your "warranty recommendation" for
time and mileage. Out-of-warranty, synthetic oils can easily go 10,000
miles regardless of time. The advantages (most) synthetic oils have is that
they don't oxidize easily (are intrinsically stable), are HIGHLY
heat-resistant, retain their viscosity sheer range (i.e. they lubricate) and
leave few by-products (also known as "varnish"). They keep your engine
substantially cleaner. I agree with what you say about 5w-30 etc. on
synthetics. Try synthetics in any small 4-cycle engines you have .. .
you'll also see quite a difference from conventional oil.
It's not the oil that wears out, it's the supplement package. You need
to replace the oil to get new additives. I would say in normal commute
driving (short trips) the number one reason to change your oil is moisture,
since it builds up condensation and never really get's it all out before you
shut it off again. That's why your exhaust will rust off so soon.
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