BINGO, we have a winner. My 1995 Monte Carlo had a "sensor" go bad. Turned
out the connector on the ABS to body harness corroded out. Two pieces of
wire 6" long and two connectors, $124CDN from GM, ya right. Took a trip to
the junk yard to get one, looked at every single w-body (monte, lumina,
grandprix, regal, etc.) from 1990 to 1999 in hopes of finding one. Nadda,
all gone. ABS sensors still on most of the cars, just this little piece of
wire gone. Just happened to find one becuase the geniuses at the junk yard
put a 1996 Monte Carlo in with the GM trucks, so it hadn't been picked
One the other hand, my buddy has a 2000 Montana and the sensor was the thing
that went. But this is all easy to test with a simple Ohm meter.
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
You might try a few loose pins from Digi-Key.
Most of that stuff is in the MOLEX line as well
as decent connectors you can replace both ends
with. That , lotsa RTV and some flexible test prod
wire will fix it forever
I'm currently running 2 injectors on MOLEX .025 pins
reworked into the factory harness, with a flexible
pigtail thanks to some heavy-handed goodwrench.
Warranty service on this early model was Murder on
I'll pop the connectors and see if I can diagnose the
wheels this week.
I decided to use the old Chev Rotors for a vibrating chair,
just bolt them in true and buzz away.
(and calling them pitted would be being nice)
I'm betting on a weak magnetic field (or oxide particles)
and expecting some type of hall sensor in the bearing,
a-la a Pioneer turntable assy, at least ALPS.
Found ALPS switches inside the power window switch assy.
I guess if they're good enough for a $50.00 VCR...
GM doesn't make KIT CARS ?
Poor quality is more like it. And they did have
some issues with the retaining nut that holds
the shaft into the bearing on some models.
Remove the bolts that hold the wheel bearing
in place, remove the large nut that secures
the axle shaft into the wheel bearing assembly,
tap on the end op the shaft and push the
axle shaft back thru the wheel bearing assembly,
and tap the wheel bearing hub flange to get the
assembly out of the knuckle. If you find that
the shaft does not easily move back thru the
wheel bearing assembly, I would suggest that
you get/rent a proper puller for removing the
hub from the shaft.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.