Toytoa Guru question

Will a 87 4runner Automatic Trans with the original harness that has the big white plug for the ECT work without the ECT, say with a manual transmission?

What I'm getting at is could you switch the auto for a manual & keep the harness/ecu & unplug the ectl?

is the ECT computer optional or does it talk in two directions?

Are they two different ECU's for manual and automatic?

Thanks in advance

Reply to
D
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If you haven't already found it: Post this in the rec.autos.tech newsgroup. That's where the real Gurus hang out. I'm sure someone there can answer your question.

Good luck, - Jeff G

Reply to
Bubba Kahuna

If you find out somewhere other than here, please repost the info here. Someday, I plan on changing out the AT in my 87 to a manual.

Reply to
chuck

Try this thread:

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Reply to
Roger Brown

"D" wrote in message news:JkBbc.60826$gA5.783601@attbi_s03...

transmission?

Here is all the info I have gathered about doing that swap. Some of come from that thread Roger posted. Gonna do this soon on my '86. Theres pleanty of info here but you might need to wade through it a bit. Also, some of the info is from a guy with a '90 but I think it is the same for ours. here ya go:

PARTS required

-flywheel with 6 clutch and 8 flywheel bolts

-intake manifold dashpot and bracket (guess it part of the smog system up by the throttle linkage.

-starter relay (on passenger fender-well)

-Tranny & bellhousing

-Transfer case

-pedal assembly

-clutch master and slave cylinder, and hard line

-shifters

-interior shifter boots and trim?

-crossmember and tranny mount

-tranny plugs (truck side)

-spedo cable?

trace firewall holes

"I have read many that have posted here regarding doing a swap from a Automatic Transmission to a 5-Speed. I must thank all who have left that info. I have a 1990 4Runner and I have just completed my swap. Of the many I read, some information was extremely helpful, but some not quite, but only due to the generation difference between my 1990 and the 1986 I read about. I'd like to share my experience and invite anyone who to questions about it. For me who is mildly mechanically in tune with my truck, it was a pretty easy venture. For me the pedal cluster was a piece of cake. I ordered a pedal cluster from Nix99 near Seattle at the tune of $125.00 which came from a 1993 Standard Cab Truck. I received also the clutch master, slave, hard lines, soft lines, and brackets and all hardware. I only used the hardware and brackets. I purchased new Clutch Master, Slave, Long hard line from master and short hard line from slave, soft line in between. Most recommended I didn't use the used items, so I didn't. The new items weren't that pricey, well at least for me. My background is in European cars which will empty your pockets. Clutch Master $55 Clutch Slave $20 Long Hardline $22 Short Hardline $12 Softline $27 Items purchased at local Toyota Dealer. The support brackets for the long hardline is already in the truck. There are three slots, two are for brake lines and the third is empty. The new hardline was a perfect fit in the third slot. I did the pedal cluster a week before the transmission swap. I had to have a flange welded into my exhaust because I have Downey Headers and the crossover pipe goes right under the transmission, kind of blocking the way. The look on the muffler shop guys' face when he saw an automatic with three pedals on the floor. "Priceless" The 2nd generation 4Runner has holes in the automatic brake pedal bracket where the clutch master and two bolts exactly go. It was like a virtual template already built into the truck. One 1 1/4" hole saw and two 3/8" bolt holes and the clutch master went right in. I swapped out the brackets and bolted up the clutch master. Total time about 1 1/2 hours. I had to remove the panel with the front-left speaker under the steering wheel and remove the power antenna and power window control boxes for access. I also purchased my 5-Speed from Nix99. I received a nice condition 1991 Xtra Cab Truck 5-Speed with transfer case at 75K for $425.00. (Mechanical Speedo with ADD switch) It came with shift levers, shift knobs, and the internal rubber boot for the levers. I purchased a new transmission mount ($107.00 OUCH) and new engine mounts, although not nesessary. ($96.00 for both) from the dealer. Also from Nix99, I purchased a flywheel from the same 1991 truck for $50 and $25 to have it resurfaced at a local machine shop. I installed a factory clutch. No price for this one because it was a gift, but they cost about $200. I hear Valeo makes a decent clutch for this truck for about $75 less. There is also the option of a Centerforce or better a Ram Clutch. I Highly recommend you get the factory clutch bolts(6) and flywheel bolts(8)!!! Used are just fine. New, they are a ripoff. Almost over a $100 for all. DO NOT try to use non-factory ones. The size may be off and the strength will probably not be enough. I have heard real bad stories. The ones from the Automatic are too short for the thickness of the flywheel. The automatic easily unbolted from the bell-housing and cross member, slid right out, crashed hard on the floor. No, the tranny jack held it, but not without a fight. That automatic transmission is quite a bit heavier than its

5-Speed counter part. Be sure to take out the cooler lines and cap off the radiator tubes with simple plastic caps. The lines, soft and hard for the cooler can be discarded. Remove the Dipstick tube and the Kickdown Gear Cable and flange from the Throttle Body. The 5-Speed bolts right up with a perfect match to the belhousing, crossmember and drive shafts. I had my drive shafts rebuilt during this swap at a tune of $160 for both at a driveline shop. Not nesessary, but nice to know there won't be any trouble. The starter also worked perfectly. I have heard they made differences, but mine fit and works just fine. The difficulty came with the wiring. The plugs are INCOMPATABLE. Try to get the plugs from the donor that hook up the reverse lights and ADD. There is a big white plug that plugged into the automatic. It contains the Neutral Safety Switch and reverse light wires. I tapped the Neutral Safety Switch into the bottom clutch pedal sensor so I have to push in the clutch in fully in order to start. If you just connect the wires and leave it, the cruise control won't work because it thinks you have put the car in Neutral or Park and left it there. Also, I tapped the wires from the brake light switch into the top switch of the clutch pedal so the cruise control disengages if I put in the clutch. If you don't have cruise control, don't worry. In the reverse light wires are in the white plug too. They must be cut off and wired directly to the switch on the 5-Speed found on the passenger's side. The ADD Switch, if you have it, wires into the top switch in the back top of the transfer case. There are a lot more wires left, but none are needed since the automatic is gone. Try to cap them and tuck them away or remove them. I just tucked mine away. I also left the automatic ECU in the center console. And lastly was the interior. The floor had to be cut a bit wider to accomidate the shift levers. With the 5-Speed in and the levers out, you can see how big the holes need to be, but they don't quite match up. I cut a little wider and mounted a 22 gauge sheet of aluminum with the center cut out correctly for the rubber under-boot to mount up. Be sure to tape up the lever holes since the metal fragments can go right into the 5-Speed. I bolted the rubber boot to the aluminum and the aluminum to the floor using lock-threaded stainless machine screws and silicone sealer all around. I then took Dynamat in four small strips around the rubber boot where the aluminum meets the sheet metal and sealed all sides. I tried to find a used Box Assembly which has the plastic frame containing the leatherette shift boots color matched to the interior, but all where in too rough shape. I, out of curiosity, called the dealership at was suprised to find it only costs $66.00, so I purchased it, plus the metal bracket that holds it in at the rear ($8) and the blank where the old ECT button went ($3). Note: Keep the little plastic yellow bolt holders from the automatic bracket, they need to be re-used. The 5-Speed was filed with Redline MTL and the transfer and differentials filled with Redline 75W-90. Total time to do this was from 9am to 6pm the same day, but two people working on it. The project was completed on January 31st 2004. Since then I have driven the truck from Las Vegas to Los Angeles three times and to San Francisco once. Yeah, i travel a lot. I have a lot more power and I get about three more miles per gallon of gas. I have towed two 2500 pound cars with no difficulty up and over the passes. Mind you, I have a modified high compression 3.0L V6 with ported heads, Downey Headers, Custom Exhaust, Downey Intake, 3mm Oversized Thottle Body, and Ported Intake. I guestimate the engine puts out about 200hp at the crank with 225tq. No official tests yet. I hope this can help anyone who reads it or attempts a swap on their 2nd Generation Truck or 4Runner. Again, feel free to ask me anything regarding this swap. If it weren't for the others who wrote in here, I might not of tried it.

Aaron.. "

You'll have to take good measurements from the donor truck to get the holes in the firewall right for mounting the clutch master cyl.I don't remember what size bi-metel hole saw you need,maybe someone else does.You need to cut a longer opening in the floor for the shifters and you're drive shafts will fit fine.I just removed the Automatic brain box and my runner runs fine.

You'll also have to fix the wiring harnees so the truck will still start.Now in the big group of plugs that hook to the auto theres a white round one that has three wires,two big wires and one small.You have to wire the two big ones together.On mine i threw the auto in the junkyard so i cut the half off the tranny(leaving a few inches of wire on it)wired the big ones together cut the small one off and pluged it back into the truck,works great.You have to becareful though because The the truck will try to start whether the clutch is in or not.

And heres some info from another post:

The difficulty came with the wiring. The plugs are INCOMPATABLE. Try to get the plugs from the donor that hook up the reverse lights and ADD. There is a big white plug that plugged into the automatic. It contains the Neutral Safety Switch and reverse light wires. I tapped the Neutral Safety Switch into the bottom clutch pedal sensor so I have to push in the clutch in fully in order to start. If you just connect the wires and leave it, the cruise control won't work because it thinks you have put the car in Neutral or Park and left it there. Also, I tapped the wires from the brake light switch into the top switch of the clutch pedal so the cruise control disengages if I put in the clutch. If you don't have cruise control, don't worry. In the reverse light wires are in the white plug too. They must be cut off and wired directly to the switch on the 5-Speed found on the passenger's side. The ADD Switch, if you have it, wires into the top switch in the back top of the transfer case. There are a lot more wires left, but none are needed since the automatic is gone. Try to cap them and tuck them away or remove them. I just tucked mine away. I also left the automatic ECU in the center console.

Replace rear main seal -from toyota

GL4-rated gear oil, I like Redline MT-90 or MTL

Manual Transmission GL-4/5, 75W90 3.2 qt.

Transfer Case GL-4/5, 75W90 1.7 qt.

75W90 (or 75W90NS) Gear oil in the transfer case:

a.. GL5 rating Redline 75W90 Synthetic Gear Oil

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"In my book, GL-4 is for straight and bevel cut gears like transmissions use and GL-5 is for helical cut gears like differentials use."

-AISIN - clutch parts *Aisin Seiki Co. (ASCO) -Daikon too - Borg & Beck too

-

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-shifter diagram,parts numbers, instructions

-osco clutch sets

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(336)591-1108

-www.eclutchmaster.com ***

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Clutch installation Procedure

  1. Closely examine the old clutch unit during removal of the clutches. If there are any grooves, thermal cracks and hot spot, the flywheel must be resufaced, or replaced during each clutch installation. 2. Check the transmission and engine oil seal for possble leaks. Replace necessary. 3. Before installing the pressureplate and flywheel, they should be wiped clean of any oils. Be sure to use clean hands, and a clean rag with an alcohol-bsed solvent while cleaning. 4. Install a new bushing or pilot bearing. If lubribation is necessay use SAE 30 Weight or Thinner petroleum oil. 5. Inspect the bearing retainer and clutch form for possible wear such as flat spots, or burrs. If wear is found replace the bearing retainer/ clutch fork. Using white, heat resistant grease lightly lubricate the bearing retainer, transmission input shaft, and contac point of bearing and clutch fork. 6. Check athat all dowel pins are in good condition and in place 7. Face clutch disk with "flywheel side" lael against flywheel. If no Label is present, make sure that the clutch dampener spring are facing the transmission. 8. After mating the cover assembly with the flywheel, insert the proper alignment tool and hand thighten the bolts. When tightening the bolts to manufacturers specifications use a star pattern. 9. Check the clutch oerational system for wear, leak, and function. Replacing the clutch cable is strongly recommended as well as chencking the hydraulic fluid and bleeding the system.
Reply to
Brian

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