Based on Brian's great tip I found that this is typically the gas cap problem. Now, the problem is if the gas cap was properly sealed. That means that i can have an actual EVAP system problem. Any tips on this one?
My car has been idle for long periods of time since I'm travelling most of the time. The car had been idle for 2 weeks and with a very small amount of gas in the tank. I was really "reving-up" the engine when the light came on.
snipped-for-privacy@msn.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
No, a P1456. No such code as P01456.
Fuel filler cap is loose.
Tighten *at least SIX* clicks. Wait three engine on-off cycles. Light should go off.
If it does not go off, the cap may not fit tightly enough for a proper seal. Replace cap. Occasionally, the threads in the filler necks can be damaged, preventing the cap from being properly tightened.
Who are you replying to? Me or the OP? I'm quite aware dealers and most shops now charge for diagnosis time. This, no doubt, because most mechanics are now dumber'n a bag o' hammers and take hours to figure out a prob. Back when my brother and I were wrenches, diagnosis time was on the shop and actual repair time was flat rate. Now, since the early 90's, it's screw the customer long and hard. Charge for diagnosis, charge for the inexperience of the mechanics, charge for whatever time it takes, be it 3 or 6 hours. Hell, charge for crapper breaks! Ever since Sears discovered the general public no longer knows the difference between a pitman arm and a valve cap and no langer cares to know, it's an 80 grit Trojan to the public ...no lubrication!
Hell, I expected this kinda crap from the dirtbags rednecks in Southern hillbilly burg filling stations in the South or last chance garages on trans-continental highways (Rt66) bach in the 60-70's. But, not from today's million dollar high tech dealers/shops. Silly me. The bottom line is still caveat emptor ...buyer beware! They'll screw you if you let 'em.
The dealership I deal with charges $46.00 plus tax of course, to check the code and reset the light. That's why I purchased the OBD II reader. After six uses it will have more than paid for itself.
I've had the same code come up in the past, once the light is reset (in my case) it never came back on. It could be a very infrequent occurrence. If it comes on again, I would investigate it further at that time.
Thanks Elle, For Quick code reading I have a cheap scanner. $600.00. Startup time is quick does all OBDII, some OBD1. the shops scanners; one is a older snap-on.
2700 new. The new scanner is a gyenises, the basic one is around 3000.00, with all the upgrades for almost all cars about 5000.00. My dream scanner is a Modis by snap-on 8000.00 for the options I want. Dealers have there own scanners that can do lots more on the brand car than the generic models. Most techs get paid by the job, and have to pay for the tools. There for we don't care if the customer wants a free service with there 30.00 oil change, we want to get that car out of there if there not going to buy anything else so we can keep trying to earn a living.
This is good information for folks here and customers in general to have.
That's another, what, like $3000 right there for a "basic" tool set.
That is /completely/ understandable.
At least your profession is not in cahoots with the insurance industry and academia to push up prices more than any other profession of which I can think, burying customers in far more undecipherable paperwork, for which getting answers is far more difficult.
I won't even elaborate on the countless government "workers" (as well as private industry workers) who post to the net on my tax dollar or on company time, for fun or whatever. One will not see auto technicians doing this. They're too busy actually earning a living.
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