Sounds good. My parts are on order locally and I think I'll
work on this before my pass. side front bushings. I'm going
to soak as much as I can of the applicable bolt threads in
PB Blaster today. Fortunately I had the header pipe
disconnected from the exhaust manifold a couple of years
Thanks for sharing your experience, JT.
No. I am using the same gas stations I usually use. They
haven't shifted. Last time I did get a winter mix, I didn't
notice a change in fuel mileage (using odometer
miles/gallons added to top off).
I think that all gasoline sold nationally now has to have an ethanol
content of 10% that replaces MBTE (sp?) that was declared "dangerous" by
the EPA.. There was a big fuss by the oil companies and refiners.
AFAIK, they basically just thread all the way (half way?) in, and thats
it. no torque necessary. when you attach the nut and washer, and torque
*that* it tightens the stud as well, or at least causes the stud to
I have 2 4 piece sets of these (the picture doesn't show the bottom) It has
3 cams that roll out and pinch the stud for removal and installation. It
sometime leaves small dimples in the stud but has never effected the
operation. Check Sears, Harbor freight. Saves tones of time on studs. (i.e.,
threading two nuts on, having them slip, re tighten, remove stud now try to
remove the nuts for the next go-around.
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
I use drills; heat and easy outs
Drill it open, insert the easy our and try; sometimes the heat of the drill
breaks it loose, but be careful, you don't want to break the easy out. If
that doesn't do the trick, an ox/ace torch, heat the stud hot and then try.
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
Stephen H, wow, thanks! I'll be checking around for these
locally "stud removal sockets." I just checked Ebay and
found a few (and just a few) similar kits. For others who
are interested, the bottom of one such set is partly shown
I also googled on this topic yesterday. The only site that
seemed helpful (so far) is
There is indeed a mention of a "locking collar type stud
remover." On first reading, that went right by me. It's
surely the tool you suggest, though.
Tegger, for studs that are broken off flush with the
cylinder head, several folks at this site make a strong
argument (based in experience) for right angle (and
Aside: I was at Harbor Freight yesterday. Fifteen dollars
buys a lot of tools which show, to me, great promise for
making my bushing replacement efforts easier when I go at
the passenger side lower control arm in a day or so. Air
hammer (seven bucks), tiny 3/4-inch diameter diamond mini
cutting discs (for my air die grinder), tiny wire brush for
a low RPM electric drill. I'm frugal, but I kept thinking,
for two or so bucks more, this or that might save me five
hours and a lot of sore muscles, keep me safer, etc.
I go at the exhaust manifold studs maybe next week.
Per Stephen H.'s suggestion, I bought an 8 mm stud removal
socket (with the roller cams) on Ebay for $13 ($7 + $6
shipping). Over the past two weeks, and after driving the
car awhile so the engine was hot, I removed the old nuts and
applied PB Blaster so as to maybe penetrate to the studs'
threads. The stud removal socket worked perfectly on all
nine studs, including the one partly broken off. Enough stub
was left so
that it was not a problem.
Very little torque was required to remove the studs with the
socket. I needed only an ordinary 8-inch ratchet with a
little pressure applied. It seemed they might have still
tightened to the 23 ft-lbs specification applied at
the factory some 15 years ago! The old studs were very
clean, and all threads were in good shape. Nonetheless since
they were surely fatigued
from cyclic heating and cooling and vibrations, I replaced
both studs and nuts.
The original exhaust manifold gasket is a three-layered,
aluminum like affair, with the layer nearest the engine
having webs. The new gasket I bought is a single layer, no
webs. Dunno what's up with this. I retained the first two
layers and replaced the layer furthest from the engine,
since it looked most like the new gasket.
The three manifold-to-header-pipe stud threads are in
questionable shape at this time, from the two times now I've
applied serious torque. I'll chase them down soon and
possibly replace them.
Fortunately th was a very easy job.
Test drive was fine. With every control arm bushing set I
replace, I think the handling is improving. I think it is
worth the effort I am putting into it.
Little aside: I previously reported a seeming drop in fuel
mileage (to 36.3 mpg, a record low in the last few years)
after the one exhaust manifold stud broke. On the next tank,
the fuel mileage shot up to 47.8 mpg (a record high in the
last few years). So I think something was screwy during my
last two fill-ups. The average is close to my usual average
for this time of year.
I remain much obliged to people's input here. It's great to
learn and build, literally.
nuts from the front suspension. There are 4 identical sized nuts (all
12x1.25 mm) but with different torque settings (page 18-8 of service
manual; 1991 Civic). One on top of the strut housing, and two at the
bottom, and another one at the end of the control arm. If you need the
diagram, do drop a line, and I will scan the page and send it over.
Hope this helps......
Is that 12 mm the nominal diamter of the suspension bolts
onto which these suspension self-locking nuts fit, though?
That sounds more likely.
The 12 mm I mention for this mystery nut is the nut head
measurement. That is, a 12 mm socket fits it. The nominal
diameter of its corresponding stud appears to be 6 mm or 8
mm. (The stud diameter is a little hard to measure while
it's stuck in the nut.)
Thanks for the input. I'll update tomorrow, hopefully.
Hello: I just checked the stud/nut diameters with a caliper after your
and Elle's posts. Yes, you two are correct: the 12x1.25 mm that Honda
manual refers to is the stud diameter and not the nut diameter (should
have remembered this...my apologies). For the 12 mm diameter nut Elle
refers to, looks like the corresponding stud size is 8 mmx1.25 mm as
Eric correctly suggests. If yours came from the front suspension, there
is just one such self-locking-nut according to the front suspension
diagram; 8x1.25 mm, stabilizer bar /lower arm attachment. According to
the diagram, in the front suspension, there are
6 of 12x1.25 mm self-locking/castle nuts (missed two of these in my
5 of 10x1.25 mm
1 of 8x1.25 mm; all self-locking or castle nuts. As Eric and you
indicate correctly, the 12, 10 or 8 referred to in the diagram are for
the stud diameter.
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