Question re: '92 Accord Ignition Control Module

If you turn on the key and leave it on for 5 seconds:

Is the check engine light on, or does it go off after a couple seconds ?

Is the sports light flashing ?

DO NOT go to Crappy Tire for service on a Honda!!! Or any car.

If the tach acts erratically before stalling and dash lights remain lit, I would suspect the igniter or ignition coil.

If the tach instantly drops to 0 when it stalls and no dash lights come on, I would suspect the ignition switch.

igniter/ignition control module are the same.

it could be that, but while some people say this is an intermittent issue, in my experience, igniters die, then stay dead forever. check into the coil and the main relay as potential other culprits. read the diagnostics at tegger.com.

I had something similar a few months back where the car just died while backing out of a parking spot. I was told that it was the "master module". That doesn't sound like the same thing as this, but it is a 91 Accord (that just turned 100,000).

That could have been your ECU (Electronic Control Unit). The way you know is if it cost you a bundle, several hundred just for the part, then it was probably the ECU. - Paul

Thanks, Jim - you answered my question. I'll have my regular mechanic check these when I take the car in for brake work next week. - Paul

Ah, yes, the big clue. It cost $500 or so.

Based on both my experience with my 1991 Civic and reading here, I now feel OEM is the only way to go for any ignition (= distributor on down to the spark plugs) parts. The OEM parts pay for themselves in longevity, with the caveat that buying them at online OEM parts dealers is your best bet by far. Not sure what Canada offers for online, though.

"Paul D" wrote

Hi - You just confirmed what I had heard earlier from others, namely that OEM is the best way to go on certain Honda components. Sounds like distributor and ignition parts both fall into this category, so I will plan to go ahead and change out the generic igniter since it's such a big safety concern. Many thanks for your assistance and have a great weekend. - Paul.

something else to look out for - the condenser. i had a couple of igniters go at 12 month intervals. because of other reasons, i replaced the original condenser on my distributor, and haven't had any more problems with the igniter since - it's been nearly 3 years now. since you're going to be in there, i strongly recommend you replace this part at the same time if there is one with your distributor. and go oem on the igniter btw.

"Paul D" wrote

Not sure what you mean by safety here, but it seems to me the failure of the igniter is akin, worst case, to running out of gasoline. Which, granted, certainly could be an unsafe situation. But truth is a lot of parts can suddenly go amiss and produce a scenario like running out of gasoline.

I bought my 91 Civic new; I am the only owner. In 1997, the car had a month or so of bad starting, then one day the car simply would not start after sitting in the garage. I did not know any better, and the Firestone shop where I had it towed put in a non-OEM igniter. This non-OEM igniter was still doing fine until 2003when the ignition coil failed. At the suggestion of the import shop and from reading here, at the same time I put in an OEM igniter. Thus the non-OEM igniter lasted at least as long as the OEM one.

OTOH, I have heard it suggested that the failure of the ignition coil could be related to the non-OEM igniter.

I keep the non-OEM igniter as a spare for long trips only. Because, following a long trip where the OEM igniter failed, once I got home I think I would repace the spare with another OEM one. Not that it's totally a piece of cake to remove and install an igniter. But it's not that hard, either, after one has done it once, and if one is reasonably handy and patient.

I recall the "Ignition Control Module" and igniter being synonymous, by the way.

Thanks again, Jim - I'll look into replacing the condenser as well. Will go OEM on everything for sure. - Paul

The scary thing was suddenly losing power brakes and steering. At least I think that's what happened. In terms of oem vs. non-oem, I guess some of that is just the luck of the draw. But wanting to keep the odds as much in my favor as possible, will go oem this time around and keep my fingers crossed. Have a nice weekend. - Paul.

"Paul D" wrote

I think you might have a touch of confusion here. There are ABS brakes (= anti-lock brakes), but they are not affected by a loss of ignition anything. The brake system (ABS or otherwise) relies on mechanical systems, when push comes to shove. Maybe, with a lot of coincidences at work, losing certain electrical features (all not really ignition related) might compromise the ABS action, but the braking action will, for the overwhelming part, still be very much intact. So you'd have to, ya know, both lose certain very specific electrical (non-ignition) features and be in a situation where ABS is essential (really wet or snowy roads, say).

As for power steering: The "power" part comes from the engine crankshaft powering the PS pump via the PS belt. Again, all mechanical. A loss of the igniter will cause the crankshaft to slow, but then the whole car is slowing down, too. Also, fact is the driver can still quite safely steer the car if, say, the PS belt were removed or if it broke. Making really large turns or maneuvers simply takes more "umph" on the part of the driver as s/he turns the steering wheel. The "power assist" is gone, but steering ability is still present.

Understood, and likewise.