On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 02:21:29 +0000, Scott in Florida wrote:
He said there was a spark when he tried to remove the bulb. The bulb's
glass was broken, and he tried to grab it without touching anything else,
but there was a spark, and when he tried to start the truck...nothing.
He had it towed to a Nissan dealer. They're trying to find a used ECU and
told him that before doing ANYTHING electrical with the truck he should...
disconnect the negative battery terminal...
(Next week he's removing the terminal and installing a Negative Terminal
That much is not true in all cases. Any care that has "theater fade"
interior lights, for example, has them powered from a computer module
(not necessarily the engine controller, but a "body controller" or some
other computer module.)
I personally have seen a bunch of blown ECU's caused by wiring shorts,
mostly fuel pumps, but other things too.
Sure the ECU is 'protected' by a diode, but no one sells the damn diode
to replace the blown one nor do many 'authorized' places exist to fix
them. Half are sunk in a block of plastic also.
I have repaired a few by using a cheap diode with a +/- 10 to 15%
tolerance so they fell close to the original specs. Close enough to work.
If the dome light is on a timer, it is connected to some kind of
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08
Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:
I don't buy it. ECUs are actually *very* well protected against
intermittent faults, voltage spikes, etc. (Zener diodes are a wonderful
thing). 99.9% of the "failed" ECUs people pull out of cars are actually
fine and the problem lies elsewhere. There's no WAY you can hurt one
just changing a light bulb.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.