Recently my battery died and I had to replace it. Costco or BJs didn't have one so I spent $150 in Sears. Then I brought it into the dealer (big mistake) to check or change the transmission fluid. The service manager called me and told me I needed to replace the fluid and also replace the spark plugs and wires and that would cost $510. I had just replaced the air sensor assembly for $450 with this dealer and I was a little pissed to say the least. I told the service manager that I am taking the car somewhere else and they charged me for $100 for the diagnosis fee. I told the service manager that I wasn't an idiot and the car's performance could not have deterioated in one night, since the battery was changed. Unless the computer needed to readjust itself. It was fine before except for the needing the transmission fluid.
When I got the car back the check engine light was on and I don't believe it was on before I brought it there but now I don't remember. The engine sounded lousy, it smelled and it stalled or almost did at stops. I believe the dealer did something to the car or maybe messed around with the spark plug wires. I feel that this dealer is a thief and whatever I do, in three months, something else will happen. The car has only 47k miles, Hyundai replaced the transmission back in July of 03, so when i ultimatey changed the ATF, at Aamco, with the Diamond SP3, it was within the prescribed maintenance time
I wonder how hard it is to change the plugs and ignition wires. I would also like to change the belts, except for the timing belt. I used to do that simple stuff when I was a kid and I understand the problem now is where the plugs are. I found this one the net:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- How do you change the spark plugs on a 2001 xg300? In: Hyundai XG300
The Nightmare of Changing Plugs
First assemble your tools, socket wrench etc and gapped sparkplugs. if the sparkplugs are deep in the engine and you pull on the wires to get the terminal off the plugs you will gasp in horror as the wires pull in half. When the screaming stops pull all the wires off, at least half will have pulled into two parts. then go to auto parts store and get new wires. Using new wires change plugs in the usuall manner. this is a true story. here's the real answer. Follow closely.
- Remove the six 10mm bolts and remove the engine cover.
- Unplug the air flow sensor connector and take the wiring loose from the air bellows.
- Remove the pcv breather hose from the air bellows.
- Undo the clips holding the air box together.
- Loosen the clamp holding the air bellows on the throttle body.
- Remove the top of the air box, the airflow sensor, and the air bellows as an assembly.
- Undo any electrical connectors attaching to items on the plenum and throttle body.
- Move the harness out of the way enough that it'll allow you to lift the plenum off. This may involve unplugging connectors in other places and unclipping the harness from ties in order to get the necessary slack.
- Remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve and the fuel pressure regulator (if you have one).
- Remove the hose that goes toward the rear of the car from the purge control valve.
- Remove the four 12mm bolts attaching the support brackets to the rear of the plenum and throttle body.
- Remove the 12mm bolt attaching the EGR pipe bracket to the rear of the plenum.
- Remove the two 12mm bolts attaching the EGR valve to the plenum. Take care to not lose the EGR gasket.
- Remove the 12mm bolts and nuts (7 I think) attaching the plenum to the lower manifold.
- Lift the plenum off the manifold and tilt up the side opposite the throttle body until it's standing close to vertical near the bottom half of the air box. (There are still coolant hoses attached to the throttle body, so you won't be able to lift that side very far). You can use a bungee or other tie to hold the plenum so it can't fall back down.
- Cover the openings in the manifold with rags or something similar to prevent anything from falling inside the engine.
- Remove the spark plug wires.
- Remove the rear spark plugs.
- Install new spark plugs in the rear bank.
- Remove the ignition coils (two 10mm bolts each).
- Remove the front spark plugs.
- Install new spark plugs in the front bank.
- Reinstall the coils.
- Install the new wires (connecting cylinders as described above).
- Remove the rags from the intake manifold and remove the plenum gasket.
- Install the new plenum gasket.
- Lower the plenum back onto the lower manifold.
- Start the bolts and nuts attaching the plenum to the manifold, but do not tighten them.
- Start the bolts attaching the support brackets, the EGR pipe bracket, and the EGR valve, being sure to properly align the EGR gasket and reinstall the wire holder on the lower EGR valve bolt.
- Tighten the bolts and nuts attaching the plenum to the manifold.
- Tighten the bolts attaching the items on the rear of the plenum.
- Reconnect your vacuum and purge hoses.
- Reconnect your electrical connectors and return the harness to its original configuration.
- Reinstall the top of the air box, airflow sensor, and air bellows and secure.
- Reconnect the PCV breather hose.
- Reconnect the airflow sensor connector and return the wiring to its original holders and configuration.
- Re1. Remove the engine cover
- Disconnect the Variable Intake System (VIS) actuator and connectors and the fuel injector connectors
- Remove accelerator cables
- Remove surge tank sub assembly
that's it compared to all the steps above...then it says renmove spark plug cables and plus...check electrode gap of new plugs. To install, reverse the removal procedures and tighten the plugs to 11 ft lbs (15Nm)
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I could either do all this myself or perhaps bring it to a mechanic who could give me a better price to do the plugs, wires, belts and timing belt in one shot. The question is where to bring it.
Alan