94 Excel Suddenly died

sounds like the computer is shot

It may be the crank position sensor. You can get the codes read at Autozone, VIP and other parts/service stores at no charge, or you can buy a code reader there. I managed to get codes from my '94 Excel using a voltmeter. IIRC, the access panel is under the dash on the left side, but I don't remember the entire procedure.

Thanks for the replys - I kinda thought it was either the computer or the crank position sensor. I have read alot posts about the sensor. Is it possible to use a light meter as opposed to a voltmeter? Is the access panel the access to the fuse box? Does anybody now where the crank position sensor is located? What is the sensor worth?

I doubt it, as the signal is very weak. It probably won't illuminate a bulb, but it might work with a low-power LED.

No, the computer is higher up under the dash. It's easy to spot, as it has two large wiring harnesses connected to it. IIRC, the metal cover on mine was black.

Can't help you here, sorry. You could try going to

signing up (it's free), then checking to see if they have the Excel manual online. BTW, the site only works with Internet Explorer.

Thanks Brian - I was using trying to using a light meter against some post inside the fuse box. I had been on the hmaservice sight many times and couldn't get anywhere on it. I was using firefox. I logged in use IE and it came up fine.

It looks like I might be able to get somewhere. I will keep you all posted. I am sure I will have more questions as I proceed. Thanks again.

Not likely. The computers fail, but fail rarely compared to the sensors. Likely a sensor failure, the trick is finding out which one.

Matt

You'll want to use the diagnostic connector inside the fuse box. You can ground to a terminal there or anywhere on the car. I always found the door check pin convenient (as long as you remember to remove the clip before closing the door). It won't work with a test light. I have seen it work with a diode. I've used a sweep meter when the scan tool was broken.

The crank/cam sensors are located inside the distributor. You may want to check the timing belt first. Since both sensors run off the cam, nothing happens if the cam doesn't turn.

I know on the '94 Scoupe you could use a volt meter.

Thanks for the advice - I have digital meter - I think that a sweep meter may be able to follow. I am going to try with the digital meter tonight and at least see if I can get something pumping out of it. There are 3 pins located at the top inside the fuse box - should any of these three work? I am going to get these codes one of these days!

I believe the connector is in the bottom of the fuse box. There will be several pins there, but I believe there's something like 10 to 14 spaces for pins total.

If you go to

and go through the fuel section of the shop manual, it'll show you how to do this.

I'd be very surprised if you can get anything out of the digital meter. The codes are displayed as two digits with the long sweeps indicating the tens digit and the short sweeps indicating the units digit.

I went to

and went throught the fuel section. It was very helpful. I was able to locate the connector in the fuse box. It showed me which pins to use. I bought an analog voltage meter. I couldn't get any results out of the meter. I had the ignition on, my ground was solid - I checked this by touching the positive lead from the multimeter to one of the fuses where I got a reading. I charged up the batter so it had a full charge - what is going on? The manual said that if the ECM was shot - You would get a constant reading with the meter. I really need some help! Thanks in advance.

Sounds like you have no output from the ECM. Does your check engine lamp come on when you turn the key on? If not, check for proper power and ground to the ECM.

Last night I actually read about the check engine light and how it should come on if there is a problem. It doesn't come on at all when I turn the key. I did check to ensure the ECM was grounded. I wasn't sure how to do this so I simply ensured that the bolt used to fasten the ECM to the vehicle was snug. It had two black wires under it so I figured it was some sort of ground. How do I check for Power and ground to the ECM?

On the

site, there's a tab labeled "ETM." This tab leads to the schematics. You'll be interested in the MFI schematic. Simply check for power in all the wires that should have power (using a test light or your voltmeter). Simply unplug the ECM and check the wires in the harness. If all the wires that should have power do have power, then check your ground. Choose one of the powered wires and then touch the ground wires and make sure you get the typical 12V.

At this point, I suspect you may have a blown fuse or a bad MFI relay. You might wish to check all the fuses inside and out first.

I was able to locate the MFI - I ran out of time last night or should I say the Mosquitos got the better of me. I will be checking the MFI tonight. Last night I was pretty frustrated I was almost giving up hope. But I think that you may be onto something with a bad MFI relay. I did check all the fuses inside the car as well as a couple of fuses located close to the Windshield washer resevoir. The seemed to check out just fine. Is there any other locations I should be checking out? I have printed off pages and pages from the hmaservice website. One question - to check connectivity for the ECM ground, can I tapp into a fuse with power and touch the ground wire to the ECM grounds on the wire harness?

You want to do this ground testing with the ECM *unplugged* and you want to do it from the ECM connectors. You can use a voltmeter or test light with one end on a wire with power (or a powered fuse like you mentioned) and the other end on the terminal in the connector. Just touch the terminals, don't stick your probes into them-- this can damage the terminals.

It's been a while since I've worked on one of these. I don't recall whether there is a sizeable underhood fuse block or not. If so, it should be a black box of reasonable size and pretty much readily identifiable.