I'm looking at a 97' Hyundai Accent on autotrader.com and i really like it. It's selling for $1750 but i think i could talk them down. I just turned seventeen and so i have a low budget. Ive been looking for a few weeks and this is the only one i can afford that doesnt have 200,000 miles on it (it only has 82,000 miles). I've read some reviews and there are more good ones than bad. But my friends keep telling me that they Hyundais are flimsy pieces of crap and that ill get killed easily in that accent. Here's the link:
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I think it looks awesome and i wont buy it without interrogating the salesman to death, but i want to make sure that i dont buy something that's going to fail in a month and that will kill me in a collision. Also, the dealership is like an hour away, so i dont want to make a completely worthless trip. Post whatever info you have... Thanks!
For what it is worth, I have a 1996 Accent with 208,600 miles on it. I bought the car new and I still am happy with it. I change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. It is a 5 speed manual.
Well - as ads go, it certainly looks like a good first car. But ads are ads. I guess the first question I would ask you is why do you feel you can talk the salesman down? What will be the basis of your negotiating? Not to suggest you can't, because we all do, but he has to have a reason to come off his price. No offense, but he's going to look at a 17 year old as someone who is not his mental equal and he's going to tell you a ton of things to keep the price up there and bank on the fact that he'll convince you of the car's worth, or make you feel like he doesn't care if you walk away or not. Do you have the cash for the car? If you do, you've got a negotiating platform. If you're looking for a loan he will know you'll need a co-signer and if you come in alone (without a co-signer), he's not going to take you seriously. Just the realities of how things work. Can he sell you a car in your state at your age? So - think about these things and go in prepared with how-ever or what-ever you need to actually negotiate a deal.
As far as an 85,000 mile Hyundai goes - there's not inherently anything to be afraid of in that mileage. I'd make sure the dealer certifies that the timing belt has been changed. There won't be any Hyundai warranty on the car at that mileage, but the car required a new timing belt at/before 60,000 miles and you'd be at risk of a major engine problem if the belt has not been changed. This is not unique to Hyundai - it's an interference engine matter. When ever you consider a used car you should spend the $15 or $20 and purchase a Carfax report on the car. There's a certain amount of assurance in that - not fool proof, but better than taking a saleman's word on things. You'll need the VIN to pull a Carfax.
Hyundai's are far from flimsy pieces of crap. They are as well built and reliable as any car in their class, and will survive an impact as well as any car in their class. Look at all of them on the road. Look at the minor collision damage you see on them - do you see fenders torn or any other signs of a car that is somehow more flimsey than any other car out there? Of course not. Call your insurance agent. Tell him what you're interested in. If Hyundai's were flimsey and were death traps, the insurance premiums would reflect that because the insurance companies would be paying out higher claims on them. They aren't. Ask your agent if it would be any cheaper to insure another car in the same class. Nope. Your friends just don't know what they're talking about - sorry.
So - what are you going to ask him? What does interrogate him to death mean? It's not a bad idea when buying a used car, but you have to have a plan for what kind of information is meaningful and what kind of information you really need to know. That Carfax report is a good starting point.
The best thing you can do for yourself is to take the car to a mechanic you trust and have him look the car over. A real, qualified mechanic will know what things to look at and will give you sound advice. Take it. $1750 may not be a lot of money as cars go, but it's all you have and you don't want to waste it.
There's no guarantees in the used car world. Anything you buy could very well die two days after the dealer's warranty is up. That's the risks you take. In most states the dealer has to warranty the car for some period - but that varies from state to state. Check your state laws. If the dealer does not have a specific, written warranty, walk. Don't fall for the verbal warranty crap. You don't have the money to chase a claim through the court system on a verbal or implied warranty. Used car warranties will often cover "drive train". Get a written description of what is covered in "drive train" and what is excluded. The dealer doesn't have that? Walk.
Your web link is for a dealer that only operates by appointment. That scares me right off the bat. Maybe it's legit, but it's unusual. I'd be on guard big time. Do yourself a favor - and again, don't take insult at this, but take an old fart with you. No sense setting yourself up to be taken advantage of by an unscrupulous dealer. 45-50 year old farts like some of the guys in this newsgroup can have a leveling affect on a dealer.
Hey, thanks for the post. I was going to bring my stepdad with me to see the car soon and bring cash so that it would be easier to talk him down and then see what kind of warranty they caan offer. I know that they offer extended warranties. Also, I think i can bring down the price because nada and kbb say that it could be a little lower. If it's good condition it could be lower, but if it's in excellent, then i probably couldnt budge it much. Im also researching the hell out of this car, the reviews and safety. So that might help some. Also, ill probably get a carfax report, test drive it, and get a compression test if i buy it, because i heard you should do that. I took a 5 month driver's ed course (one semester) in school so we spent 3 weeks on buying a used car. Like not ubying it iof there's sufficient rust or water damage and what to look for for cleanliness in the engine and crap like that. I probably wont go out to see it for about 3 weeks though. Surprisingly, the biggest thing im worried about is paying for car insurance.
I have a Dillion PRS Copy, a custom made strat, and a Takamine EF series.
With a handle like that I couldn't let your post go by without offering a bit of advice.
Stay away from extended warranties. No matter how good the dealer or anyone else makes them sound, they are a rip off. There are more loopholes in those contracts than there are holes in swiss cheese and they cost an absurd amount. Those things are meant to prey on the fears of people and *never* pay to invest in. Take the money you would have been paying for that extended warranty and put it in the bank every month. By the time you're ready to replace that car you'll have a nice little downpayment for your next car. Or... you'll actually have the money to repair the car at a fraction of what the warranty would have cost.
I like your approach - at least you're not drooling to get this car, no matter what.
Cool. I have a Terry C. McInturff Glory Standard, a Taylor 710CE, and a Jackson that I've tweaked a bit - not even sure what the model number is. It's a fat-strat configuration.
Hmm my research indicates that it's a good idea to get an extended powertrain warranty on off warrantly Hyundai's. I'm sure there are extended warranties that are scams, just like there are used cars that are scams.
'91 Gibson Les Paul Studio '77 Ibanez Artist Yamaha 441S acoustic
Well... you might be as wrong as mud Chris, but it's no matter. The Les Paul is nice, but anyone that still owns a 70's Ibanez gets a lot of room. I regret the day I got rid of my '75.
Couple of guitars and a set of wheels and a fella is off 'n runnin'. One or the other of 'em is bound to attract a girl or two. Though... the car is probably more likely to draw 'em in. Plus... the car has a back seat for - oh wait, you're a young fella - you don't need to be knowin' 'bout that stuff.
As someone already mentioned, be *SURE* the timing belt has been changed. This is an absolute must. If it breaks without being changed, you will likely damage the engine and it will not be covered by warranty. You might be able to get a printout of what repairs have been done to the car from the dealer. I would want the timing belt thing in writing.
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