Driver-side power door lock failing

Does the same thing occur when using the lock button on the door?

Does the lock knob move at all when attempting to use the power lock/ unlock feature, or does it just sit there dead no matter whether you're trying to lock or unlock?

If you're under 60,000 miles, it'll cost you nothing. If outside the warranty period, cost will vary greatly depending on where you have the work done and by geographic location. Answers to the above questions will help me tell you the specific item that will need to be repaired, enabling you to get estimates from places near you.

Hey thanks Hyundaitech.

The lock button inside the car will lock all doors. The knob does move freely. I'd like to have it done at the Hyundai in Lewiston, ID or Logan, UT.

Oh, and I'm only at 40K miles. :-)

Are you also within the the Time Period of the warranty? My power door locks failed at only 40 K miles but outside the warranty period by about two weeks. The miserable local Hyandai dealer would not do the work, found out later this has been a known wiring fault on Elantras. This will influence my buying choice in the future, both as regards car and/or dealer.

Since it's an '06 with 40k miles, you're within the 5 year/60k warranty. Take it for warranty service.

As for the symptoms, I'm becoming confused. Are you saying the driver's door won't lock with remote but will with the power lock button on the door? Looking at the schematic, that doesn't look possible.

Also, I understand that the lock knob moves freely. What I want to know is, when you're attempting to lock/unlock with the remote or door lock switch, does the lock knob move at all or does it stay completely still? See the thread below where a similar issue is discussed.

Ahhh okay. Well to answer your first question if / when the remote doesn't work, neither does the interior power-door lock button.

Second, when the remote fails, the knob stands completely still.

On Jul 6, 12:02=A0pm, Yabahoobs wrote: still? =A0See the thread below where a similar issue is discussed.

If the you cannot feel the knob move at all when attempting to activate, then this doesn't rule out electrical issues such as BCM, relays, and wiring. Since your car is still within the warranty period, we can estimate the cost at $0, but it'll need to be checked to determine the actual issue. Even so, I'll put my money on the door lock actuator. Have seen very few door lock electrical issues on '06 and newer Sonatas.

I have an 06 Sonata with about 40K miles that seems to have the same issue on the left rear door. The remote or the internal power lock button triggers the other three doors fine, but the left rear one will "twitch" a little, but not a full swing. Manually moving the lock/unlock button on the door itself works fine, but then when I do the power lock, the lever on the door will only partially move.

Does the 5 yr/60K limit still apply if I'm not the original owner? We bought it used from the dealer (it had been a turned in lease)

Mike O.

Warranty (5/60) still applies. Since you can see it move a little, you've just confirmed that everything electrical is in working order. You'll need a door latch assembly.

Wow, looks like 06 Sonata's had a problem. This is yet another one after my initial post!

Warranty (5/60) still applies. Since you can see it move a little, you've just confirmed that everything electrical is in working order. You'll need a door latch assembly.

I called the dealer yesterday and dropped of the car this morning to look at the door and the ABS light issue (I mentioned in another posting). For the ABS light, I told him that I had done checking on the internet and that it sounded like it was the issue mentioned in the TSB about the brake light switch and was either on a recall, or probably was going to be soon (thanks HyundaiTech!). He said he didn't think the ABS warning light was part of that problem, but he would check.

A few hours later they called and said it was all done, no charge. On the work order, it said "Stop lamp switch switch assembly replacement per factory bulletin".. They also replaced the door latch and actuator.

Just curious, when the switch was failing and the ABS light was coming on, was it also affecting my rear brake lights? It happened to intermittently I didn't think to check.

Thanks again.

Mike O.

Yes. The ABS/ESC system monitors master cylinder pressure and brake lamp switch output. If they don't agree, the warning lamps illuminate and ABS and ESC are deactivated (since the ESC module cannot conclusively tell when the brakes are applied).

So the faulty switch had the system thinking the brakes were being applied, but since the system didn't see the cylinder pressure change that would go with the brakes being applied, it triggered the warning?

Or vice versa: the ESC/ABS module saw a pressure reading but no signal from the switch.