I have a 1996 Ford Escort which has been developing a problem recently.
Every once in a while, when I am idling at a stop sign or traffic light,
or going in reverse slowly, the engine will cough (jolt), and sounds as if
it is going to cut out. Sometimes, it even lurches a bit. However, as
soon as I even lightly tap the gas, the problem goes away and the car is
fine for a while until this happens again.
After the "Check Engine" light came on, I used an OBD-II reader to get the
According to this website:
P0440 indicates a possible failure in the evaporative emission control
system, but the website also says that there shouldn't be any drivability
1) Is this something that should be fixed urgently? Is there any danger
to the car stalling while driving it?
2) I am planning to trade in this Escort for a new car in a few months.
Is it worth spending the money now to fix this issue? If I don't fix this
problem, will the dealer offer me significantly less money on a trade-in?
Try clearing the codes before you drop the vehicle off, just hope that
the light doesn't come back on when you pull in!
But seriously, it could be anything evap related between the fuel tank
and the canister purge valve. For starters...a loose gas cap, bad fuel
pump seal, broken evap line, charcoal canister, malfunctioning purge
solenoid, broken vacuum line to the purge solenoid and maybe some other
Probably have a leak somewhere leaking fuel vapors to the atmosphere.
On Mon, 24 Jul 2006, at 1:35pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I've thought about doing that. In fact, I have already tried to clear the
code with my reader, but after a few days, it came right back. The other
problem is that this problem occurs sporadically. I cannot seem to
predict or replicate the driving condition(s) which causes the car to
rumble/lurch/cough. Sometimes it happens when I'm at a traffic light, and
sometimes it doesn't. It's quite random, although it does *seem* to occur
more often when the car has been running for a while.
So, even if I was able to clear the code long enough for it to stay off
while the dealer inspected it, chances are that the car would
rumble/lurch/cough right at that time, knowing my luck. :-/
All of that sounds potentially quite expensive to track down and fix. I
really don't know if the cost is worth the benefit. The question is
whether or not the amount of money that the dealer would offer me (if I
got this problem fixed) for the trade-in would be comparable to the worth
of the car minus what I'd pay to repair this issue...
The EVAP code is likely unrelated to your problem. The most common cause of a
IMHE, is failure of the purge valve or purge flow sensor. Ford recommends
both at the same time and they (used to?) come as a kit of sorts. Sensor, valve
couple of hoses. Both are located in lines directly below the battery tray.
It sounds like the idle may be surging a bit when idling in gear. Try cleaning
IAC valve. Cleaning only works long term about half the time, but it's worth a
a car soon to be traded in.
On Tue, 25 Jul 2006, at 12:12am, Tom Adkins wrote:
Okay, a bit of a disclaimer: I know NOTHING about car repair. Absolutely
nothing. I've never even changed the oil in my car. :( So I really
cannot do any of this on my own, and have to rely on my local Pep Boys.
In your estimation, how much do you think it would cost (or rather, SHOULD
cost), in parts and labor, to diagnose/clean/fix the various valves as you
Basically, I'm looking to avoid paying the ridiculous $100 "diagnostic
fee" that Pep Boys would automatically charge in this case, so I would
like to drop off the car and basically tell them to fix X, Y, and Z only.
As I mentioned, I know nothing about car repair, so I am going by what you
and the other kind folks have suggested in this thread! :) If, in your
opinion, you believe the issue is with the IAC valve (and, to me, it
certainly sounds correct), then I'll just tell the mechanics to repair
just that. Thanks.
Whoa! The car needs to be diagnosed properly, there's no way around it. The
mentioned are common problems but are not the only problems that can cause your
symptoms. If you tell the shop to replace the purge valve and sensor, then clean
IAC it may well solve the problems. If not, you've spent that money needlessly
then you will have to pay for the proper diag and repair on top of it.
What is wrong with $100 for diagnosis? That's about 1.5 hours. A proper
diag can take anywhere from .5hr to 2 hours or more. Most shops will even roll
part of that fee into the repair if they do the repair.
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