If you look back up under the fender on the driver's side back of the
vehicle near the bumper (on the inside right below where the jack is stored)
there is a rubber plug that pops out. Attached to the back of it is a plug
that has connections for L/R turn signals, brake lights, running lights, and
a ground. You can get an adaptor that plugs right and converts into a 4-pin
standard trailer plug. If you're talking about electric brakes on the
trailer, no, it is not pre-wired. You'll have to buy and hook up a brake
controller unit. If you need a brake controller and don't need your ash
tray and get the right model, I can tell you how I rigged mine in place of
the ash tray in my 2002.
Thanks. I would like to know how you mounted and wired your brake
controller. The ashtray area looks like an ideal place for the
controller. I didn't see how to remove it. Did you keep the brake
wire inside your Trooper all the way to the rear? Did you have to
drill a hole in the firewall for access to the battery?
I also thought about mounting the controller under a row of switches
on the left side of the instrument panel. My truck has an access
panel in this area where I could run the leads to the controller. My
unit comes with a mount that allows removal when not in use and I
could tuck the wires back into the access hole and replace the plate.
I bought the trailer hitch for my '95 from an Isuzu dealer several
years ago. It came with a wiring harness for trailer lights that
plugged into a connecter located under the truck, recessed into the
inner body panel. It is just behind the left, rear wheel and was
covered with a rubber plug.
I think I can help you with that one. The name of the controller I
bought is Prodigy. According to the installation guide, the
controller is activated by the stoplight switch. The controller
senses deceleration and applies the brake proportionally.
On Mon, 11 Aug 2003 21:38:30 -0700, "Stephen \(Despammed\)"
Basically...the el-cheapo models like I have take the stoplight switch (has
12v+ power when you touch the brake pedal) and run it to a lead on the brake
controller. So when you hit the brakes it senses and and gradually applies
voltage to the brakes. On the model I have there is one slider to adjust
the maximum power output to the brakes and another to adjust how quickly
power is applied (so they don't jerk all at once like the old type brake
controllers did). I think some francier models (the prodigy included?)
sense inertial forces and use that to control how much braking is applied.
Just get an electronic brake controller and the manual should explain it all
pretty well for you...
Not too difficult to do... First thing in order for this to work is you
will need to have the draw-tite "activator I or II" brake controller. Take
a look at www.draw-tite.com. I know Reese has one just like it with their
name on it, may be others as well, but that's the one you will need to fit
it exactly the way I did. Take a look at the pictures on draw-tite's web
site to see a photo of it.
Biggest trick is getting it all apart. Start with the floor console where
the shifter is - one screw on either side down low. Un-screw the ball on
the H-L 4wd shifter and remove it. Pop out the 4 empty plugs to the right
of the Power/winter mode buttons. That will allow you some leverage to pull
up - there's a catch right at the back center of the console that takes a
bit of tugging to get loose - pull straight up. You'll have to slide the
whole console back to make room to get the the center dash piece out. Once
you've got it moved back, I think there are 2 or 4 screws in the center
console trim that you unscrew, then work it all loose. You'll have to
unplug the cigarette lighter connections to get it out - there's a spot you
push and it releases the connectors - just make sure you remember which goes
where! Once you can see the back of it, there's a screw (or was it 2?) to
remove the ash tray assembly from the trim piece. There's also a plug for a
small lightbulb in the tray that you'll have to unplug. Once you have the
whole thing out, you'll have to look at it closely, this part is a bit fuzzy
now and w/o the part in front of me. There are some small screws on top
(you'll need a smaller #1 philips bit) then work that plate loose - the
rubber at the top front will flex and allow it to work out. Then there is a
metal rod with a C-clamp or whatever you call it you have to work off in
order to slide out the pin. Once that is out, carefully work and remove the
sliding tray and spring part. You can stretch the outermost parts out to
help free it (outside held together at this point by the piece of rubber at
the front, which will stretch for you). Go ahead and remove the lightbulb
assembly on the side by removing the 2 screws. Once it's all apart, put the
metal plate back on the top. Next get your drill bits and drill out...take
a look at the left side (from the perspective of it mounted in the vehicle)
and you'll find a hole that you can get to line up for one of the mounting
screws. (The brake assembly has a mount that looks like a letter E without
the middle line in it that you mount and then mount the brake controller
onto it with screws from the sides.) Line up the mounting bracket so that
you can get one screw in thru this hole after you've mounted the bracket.
On the other side where there is a small slit for the light bulb to shine
thru, take a larger (3/8 maybe?) drill bit and make the hole bigger so you
can put the other screw thru it. Drill holes in the upper metal plate and
mount the bracket using small (#6 or so) (and will need to be short or cut
short) bolts and nuts. Line up from where the wires come out and drill a
few big holes side by side in order to get the wires out the back - will
need to line up properly so the wires come straight out or you won't be able
to get the controller back in far enough. Mount the controller in place,
put it all back together and you've got the hard part done. :-) I was
quite pleased with how this turned out in my 2002. Best I can tell, the
95's and up are all the same. On the 92-94 models you can just take out the
ash tray and mount it in the open hole - that's what we did in our 94. This
may or may not work as well for you if you have a different model brake
controller...but if it fits, you can probably make it work.
For wiring - yes, I kept it inside all the way (tuck it under the plastic
side pieces and trim along the drivers side - did the same for the 12v
constant lead as well). and then made a hole in the rubber grommet in the
back that you have the existing wiring harness coming out of. If you look a
bit, there is a rubber grommet in the firewall that has other wires running
thru it, carefully cut a slit in it and work the wires thru to get from the
engine compartment to the brake controller. I don't know if it makes a
difference or not, but I cheated and ran the ground to a good grounded screw
on the inside of the firewall instead of running another 12-gauge wire to
Good luck! If you have any questions, just let me know and I'll try to
help... happy towing! :-)
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