If you're talking about a 92-?? model Trooper (the notes below came from our
94) this should help you out. This was the book I typed out while thinking
it thru, but I don't think anyone responded. I ended up switching 4/5 with
6/7 so I could use the passenger switch to control the driver's side window.
Probably a lot more info than you need in some regards, but hopefully it
will be of some help. If you have any questions, I'll try to help...
I seem to remember reading somewhere here about problems in the circa 1994
era troopers and the drivers power window switches assembly... Looks like
I've run into that problem as well and the dealer wants $206 for the part!
:-( I'll lay out all the details I've found and made notes on, and I'm
hoping someone can give me some thoughts or advice on what to do to try to
get around this problem...I'd rather not pay $206 to get the driver's side
window to go back up. :-) Issue is that the driver's window will go down,
but not back up. All other windows work just fine! First thing I'd advise
anyone having problems is to disassemble and clean the contacts, mine were
all blackened from arcing when the switches were flipped.
To start with, here's the wiring connections on the switches side of the
connection as I've noted them. Numbers are random, just the order in which
I jotted them down. First color is primary, 2nd color listed is the stripe
1. Green/Red Illumination lights when headlights are on
2. Red/Green Illumination lights when headlights are on
3. Blue/Black 12V+
4. Blue/White To FL
5. Blue/Blue To FL
6. Green/Yellow To FR
7. Red/Yellow To FR
8. Green/Black To RL
9. Red/Black To RL
10. Green/Blue To RR
11. Red/Blue To RR
12. Black/Black Negative/Ground
Looking at the connector looks something like this:
8 2 3 9 10
7 6 12 1 11
Hopefully that looks OK and makes sense - that's where the pins from the
wires listed above are located in the connector.
To disassemble the switch assembly, first pop off the button that disables
the other window switches, then work your way step by step taking out the
screws. All the screws are the same, so you shouldn't have to worry about
mixing them up. After you take out the 4 screws to remove the top plastic
part of the rocker switches from the rest of the assembly, take it off
gently so you don't send all the little metal rockers flying. At this
point, you'll see what makes the switches switch. If yours are blacked as
mine were, it would probably be good to take off the little rockers one at a
time and clean the underside where they have gotten blackened, as well as
the contacts on the "board". I used a paper towel and then a pencil eraser
to get them good and clean. For the drivers switch unit, I just gently bent
the contacts and used a paper towel piece as best I could.
Basically the way all the switches (except the driver's window) work is
this: By default, for example, 6&7 are connected to the ground. When you
flip the switch one way or the other, it connects either 6 or 7 to 3 for 12v
power to raise or lower the window, depending on the polarity. This is
basically the same for the driver's window, but there is some electronic
circuitry and a solenoid to enable it to lock down for a short time to lower
the window all the way with one push of the button. The "lockout" button
basically just removes the ground connection from the other 3 switches so as
to keep them from working.
I then test the switches and all work properly (ohm-meter between ground or
12v+ connection) and they flip-flop and transfer current as expected. The
drivers window, in the up direction all looks perfect, but in the down
direction, either the 12v+ or ground (can't remember which now, but I think
+) showed full current flow on one wire, and some flow but with resistance
on the other. I'm guessing this is due to the circuitry that allows it to
go down with one click? However, down works fine, it's the up I'm having
problems with! If I take my tester leads and punch them into the vehicle
side of the connector on 3 and 12 (12v+ and ground) and the touch them in
one direction or the other to 4/5 I can get the window to go up and down
with no problems! I'm stumped because it looks like it should be working!
I thought about wiring a momentary switch into the up direction, but that
wouldn't work because at rest, both wires (4&5) are shorted to ground, so if
I put in a 12v+ into it, it would short to ground and blow a fuse. Another
thought was swapping 4/5 with 6/7 to get the FR switch to run the FL window,
and you could still reach over and run the FR window with its own button on
that door. I can't seem to get it straight in my head if I'd break
something by doing that though... Will the FL weirdo switch work fine in
line with the FR switch? Will the FL switch on the drivers door properly
take the place of the FL weirdo switch? Logic says that would since I can
short wires myself and get it to work...? The odd thing with the other door
switches is that they have a 5-pin connection on them...FR door has 2 pins I
can tell appear to run to the drivers door and hook in with the
corresponding switch, but I can't figure out how they function using the
Input? Thoughts? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
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