XJ40 engine in E-type

I doubt it. Why would somebody want to destroy the resale value of an E-type?

David Betts ( snipped-for-privacy@motorsport.org.uk) The Classic Car Gallery:

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Al

A lot of money. They are up to the $40,000 on Ebay.

===========BuckShot LeFunk =1998 LS 400

1999 E320 4-Matic

Al wrote:

What Series? What condition? Original or new bodyshell?

In fact, maybe buying a new bodyshell and going from there is a better option than "restoring".

Exactly......and where in the world you are?

The more original a car, the more it is worth. The most valuable - other than genuine lightweight or low-drag cars with a racing history

- are the original 3.8 series ones, in open or fixed-head form, closely followed by the 4.2 series ones - which are actually the better road cars, with nicer seats and an all-synchro gearbox.

The least desirable car is a series two 4.2 2+2 auto. These cars can still be picked up for silly money.

Later series three V12s can make very good money as well, but these are nowhere near as desirable as the earlier cars. Big fat pose-mobiles, basically .

Price range for a well-restored runner in the UK is probably GBP 15 -

30 thou.. With exceptional, original cars, the sky is the limit.

Advice is always to buy the best you can afford. Mid-price cars can end up costing you far more than high-end cars. Otherwise, buy a basket case and start from scratch.

David Betts ( snipped-for-privacy@motorsport.org.uk) The Classic Car Gallery:

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It runs well except for the pinging; I even have a thicker head gasket, but the gas is lousy nowadays. I've been tempted to use aviation gas, but it's not legal to do that ;-) I've also been told that some speed shops sell high octane gas. Since I only put about 200 miles on it per year now, the cost won't be a factor; if I can find some.

Al

Al

You need to retard the ignition slightly fow lower octane fuel, although this may cause the engine to run a little hotter. Best alternative is to use an octane-boosting additive. Widely available in the UK from motor accessory stores. No idea about the US. Try Googling.

David Betts ( snipped-for-privacy@motorsport.org.uk) The Classic Car Gallery:

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Aviation gas is actually not very high octane when measured by the R+M/2 method. 100LL avgas is about 92. 100/130 is about 98. 115/145 is almost 103, but no auto engine will burn it straight without severe lead fouling even at full throttle even with lead scavenging agent.

The trick is to use avgas mixed with unleaded to provide TEL to increase the octane rating. Becausee avgas has strict RVP parameters-it's actually closer to "white gas" or JP-4-it is a low octane base stock with very large amounts of TEL added.

115/145 is only made once a year for Reno air racing. 100/130 is available in the Pacific Northwest and at a few FBOs with heavy warbird traffic. 100LL is the only common grade and can be used for this purpose. About a 4:1 or 5:1 dilution with pump auto gas gives peak results. Even 10:1 is very bneficial.

It is illegal to put it in a car for on-road use technically. It is not illegal to buy it for any other use, and usually FBOs will sell you a gallon or five with no hassles. Some of the bigger ones may give you grief buit then go elsewhere.

Eventually, leaded avgas will go away because turbines and diesels will displace most of the recip fleet that is not approved to use auto fuel.

Good advice. So a mixture of avgas and autogas would do the trick. I was wondering about the method used for the octance calculation and your explaination shows that you have to knowledgeable in this area.

I was hesitant to use an octane booster as I was afraid it would not be compatible with the materials used in the fuel deliviery system of a '71 XKE. I've heard that the ethanol used to produce "cleaner" fuels used to have an effect on some automobile fuel systems whan it was first introduced.

Al

Octane boosters are specifically targeted at older cars. Modern cars don't need them. Why is it that people are always looking for complicated solutions when easy ones are at hand?

David Betts ( snipped-for-privacy@motorsport.org.uk) The Classic Car Gallery:

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Well, it might be the case that you (or me for instance) had been able to puchase a rust free 1967 Series 1 Coupe that had been pre-screwed up by a previous owner who had cut pieces up/off to install an american V8 engine. At least returning the car to "a" Jaguar engine would be better than the lump of an american V8 there. Also the AJ6/AJ16 engine weighs approx 130lbs less than the old XK engine plus it puts out a good 50 - 75 HP MORE than the XK engine.

If you are going to drive a 1971 automobile maybe it's time the tank was dropped and sloshed, and all the rubber fuel lines replaced, anyway. I mean 33 years is a long time.

Ok, that makes some sense. It makes much more sense to restore it as an E-type than as some sort of bastardisation, though. Surely one of the biggest attractions of of the E-type is its direct lineage to the Le Mans winning D-types. The XK engine won Le Mans five times.

David Betts ( snipped-for-privacy@motorsport.org.uk) The Classic Car Gallery:

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It wouldn't if Briggs Cunningham had stuck with the real racing engine in the C-6R...