1986 'Nuttered' CJ7 4.2L Canadian Emissions Data

The problem is, in Calif., the system has to physically be installed. I don't know what the bypass entails, but if stuff is removed, then the vehicle fails because of the visual inspection that comes before the sniff test.

There is considerable irony here, the bypass can conceivably result in better performance with the sniffer, but because the system hasn't got all of the components, it automatically fails. The vehicle can spit out better numbers, but if the parts are missing, it will fail. Sad - even stupid - but true.

All the junk can be left in place. It only requires 2 new wires from the ignition module to the distributor that fit inside the loom.

You then just set the carb mix and timing. That's it!

If you have to put it back, it is only 2 wires to change.....

Mike

Jeff Strickland wrote:

hmmmmm I read the nutter instructions sounds like this will have to be something that I will have to do to my 89yj as it will not pass emissions the sad part is it was recommended that I may need a evap canister guess what no longer available anywhere. government sucks

Talk about blatant extortion eh? If I failed, I also could give the garage $450.00 for a conditional pass.

Just a coincidence that a carb is $365.00 plus $100.00 to put it in eh.

The $tealer still sells the canister and there are places in the US that sell them so you can still get one.

The canister is needed for decent running and gas fume control but if dead, it craps out the carb and PCV.

Mike

u know who wrote:

Oh, you can usually clean the EGR's out. Carbon is an issue and for sure you need one working to pass the sniffer.

Mike

u know who wrote:

Oh, an EGR is a hundred, the canister is $165 for the last one I saw bought, add 2 hours labour to get $180 to put the crap in should get you the extortion pass....

Mike

Mike Roma>

ya extortion test that's a good name for it. it appears my egr is broken as the swivel vacuum nipple seems to be bent and the housing of where the vacuum nipple sits is cracked and broken.

I'm going to pay for the diagnostics test then take the recommendations and do the work myself and keep a folder with receipts. then take it back for the retest once I hit my limit. and also at that point I will have my new egr and whatever else they recommend as well as my nutter bypass and 3 ounces of acetone added to the fuel.

On my e test they put that I have a 4.0L. On my asm2525 test my NO ppm was 3677 timing was way to advanced limit was

well at least I can assume that I should pass next time as the jeep was so out of tune. reason for being out of tune I found a bad vacuum leak and never adjusted the carb to reflect the stopped vacuum leak.

been so long since I played with a carbed equipped veh. and the fact that it is also computer controlled sucks. which basically means that some of my adjustment can be over ruled by the computer.

alwell

keep fingers crossed for Tuesday. diagnostic day. the retest down the road. not so bad cause ministry issued me real plates even though it was a resale change of ownership. so theoretically I don't require a test till my plate renewal.

Extortion test... love that one Mike!

My numbers ('92 XJ 4L)

(Limit/Reading) ASM252 HC ppm 55 / 11 CO% 0.31 / 0.17 NO ppm 780 / 55

Curb Idle HC ppm 200 / 7 CO% 1.00 / 0.33

-Brian

ya easy to pass when fuel injected. try to pass with a carb....near impossible or impossibile to drive to set the carb so out of limits then it isn't driveable.

I've done the "Nutter" - it is very sweet and easy. The power is seat of the pants noticeable. You can hide the wires easy. Definitely 2 thumbs up.

We don't have to have things stuffed up our tail in Missouri (yet). Chuck

I find it 'really easy to do and have successfully done a bunch of them to pass here in Canada.

A carb kit is only $20.00 and does them wonders!.

Mike

u know who wrote:

You need to be really careful there.

That 'extortion' money is only valid if you pay it to the garage, doing the work yourself doesn't/didn't count and even with receipts might not work. It didn't work when I first tried it on my Cherokee that failed. Turns out mine was under O2 recall, so once they did that the Cherokee passed.

I would 'not' add any cleaner like acetone to the fuel system. That can put tons of crud into the gas that can take weeks to get burned through and will likely set the sniffer off.

Oh you also will get your next test for free!

Because they put the wrong engine down, the test was not valid and they still owe you for the test you paid for. Really, this has happened to friends before, just take back in the paperwork.

Mike

u know who wrote:

I don't know what else to call it......

If I flunk emissions, I can give the garage $450.00 for 'repairs' and I get a pass no matter what the tail pipe says..... The amount is written right on the test.

Mike

Cherokee-Ltd wrote:

You might get burned on the theory of have the diagnostic tell you whats wrong and then do the work yourself. If you live here in the Land of "Dalton I'm dumber then rock M'ginty" (Ontario). You will need to show any and all work was preformed by an authorized repair facility in order to meet the cap quota. If you do $350.00 dollars of repairs on your own before the retest and still fail that $350.00 WON"T count towards the cap (about $550.00 IIRC).

Also that cap is good for one time only, the first time a vehicle fails it has a repair cap and it will be granted a conditional pass (one time only) subsequent fails the vehicle is to be fixed until it passes.

Two tests ago my 93 XJ fail, here is a breakdown of the repair charges by Cambodian Tire. Diagnostic $100.00 O2 sensor $ 80.00 Oil Change $ 15.00 (this was oil only) Air/Oil/Fuel filter $50.00 (filters only) Labour $145.00 ($60/hr) Total $390.00

The cap was $500 as the test had been established in my area for sometime. The Cherokee still failed the retest after all that was done. The last thing the Tech. did before retesting was the oil change (cost about $20) main reason he did this was the next step in the T/S was to change the cat. $370.00 still allowed him to change the cat, $390.00 ment that repair would put me over the cap and he couldn't do it.

I asked thenif I were to do the work (change the sensor) and return with it would they retest it, No problem, but if it still failed I would have to prove that a authorized shop fixed it otherwise I would still have that $500 cap, if an authorized shop fixed their charges would be deducted from the cap total and I would have the remaining still to spend.

Snow...

Don't ya just love Big Brother?

hi according the to gov of Ontario emissions pamphlet. I must have a diagnostic performed by authorized fix place. then according to there diagnostic sheet of probable causes I can do the repairs according to only what is on the list up to the repair cost limit. I must keep all receipts and the diagnostic list to show as proof. but only I or the garage that did the test can work on my car to count toward the limit. I would get more bang for my buck if I do the work than paying them to do it.

so couple of questions what happens when you have spent your 450 and then go back 2 yrs later and you fail again and the list of repairs have been done but ya still fail. oh and what happens when parts are no longer available from any source to fix emissions components which I have all ready run into. carbed jeeps rarely pass emissions and if they do they are so leaned out that ya can't drive them. next year the Howell fuel injection set up. I have already spoken to them and there off road kit meets regular emission requirements other than cali. plus the increase in fuel economy will make it worth it.

so cause they put the wrong engine I should get a free re test eh well I'll try it and see.

now I'm starting to see why the guy sold this jeep. still not deterred though just fed up with gov.

well I will be paying 170 for diagnostics that include carb and timing adjustments, as well as emission components check.and they have the jeep for the entire day. that's got to be worth something there.

Crap man, where do you live?

I am in Toronto and am home most days with more than half a clue how to set them up for our 'Canadian' emissions pass. I can't do much work, but I can sure still point....

My CJ7 goes like a scalded cat! It lights up my 33's too easy from a start, I pull really fast to 50 mph in 2nd gear hitting about 4400 rpm,

And my readings are below.

Mike

u know who wrote:

If it fails two years later it all has to be fixed again. If it managed a conditional pass the previous year it HAS to pass and has no cap (just like it does when you purchase a used vehicle). You might get more bang for your buck doing the work yourself (going by the dianostic, and keeping the receipts) but your time will be worth ZERO of the cap. sometimes labour costs can be the savior on the cap.

As for non available parts, well if you change out the engine for either an engine that never exsisted in that vehicle (i.e. put a 305 into your jeep) or you install an engine no longer produced for that vehicle and no longer produced by the car maker (i.e. putting a 283 into a 1993 gmc truck) you will be tested as a hotrod.

Snow...

For the 'hot rod' test, you now have to go to a $tealer and get a letter stating the engine you have was never used in your vehicle or have the test done at the $tealer so they just know this.

Places like Canadian Tire require the letter now they told me.

Mike