79 CJ5 decisions

The 304 should run pretty smooth if it is tuned up properly. It shouldn't "smell like raw gas all the time", but swapping in a 4.0 is overkill for fixing that problem. There are fuel injection kits and manifolds available, and these are fine if you are rich, but you probably just have a bad float needle valve.

Manual transmissions are a pain in the neck to rebuild. If they need rebuilding, there is always a high dollar part like a countershaft that is bad. If you just want to refresh the bearings, gaskets and small parts to get some extra life out of it, that shouldn't be too bad.

Earle

Congrats on the CJ. The 'bug' is less like a bee and more like a wasp, so be careful.

A1: Get a carb kit and rebuild it. Chances are it needs it. Change the plugs, check the timing, cap/rotor, ect. Check all vacuum lines and fluids. Give everything a good once-over, and once everything is up to spec, I think you will be pleasently suprised with the driveability of your 304. Unless you are a sucker for pain, I would not advise switching the 304 for the I6 so long as your 304 is running I feel this would be maximum pain for minimum gain. The 258 is a GREAT motor, but it will never sound as good as a v8. If you are hell bent on a swap, a SBC and TH350/400 might actually be easier and cheaper than the I6. If you go this route, avoid the 700R4 like the plauge.

A2: Not sure why it has drum brakes. I suppose you could get the knuckles and parts from another (D30?) and add discs if the manual drums aren't stopping well enough for you. Before you go dumping a ton of money and energy into a power brake swap or front disc swap, try pulling the drums and making sure everything is within spec and adjusted properly. Finish off with a good brake bleed and see if that helps. I suppose if the brakes still wearn't good enough, I would do a power brake conversion and add front discs. If they still wearn't good enough, I'd remind myself that it's a Jeep.

A3: The D300 should work, don't know about the T-176. I would think you'd at least need a new bellhousing and input shaft.

A4: With the Jeep parked, E-brake set, and wheels chocked, lay down in front of the Jeep. Have the wife sit in the driver's seat, turn the igniton to unlock the steering (Engine should be OFF) and move the steering wheel back and forth. At first, only back and fourth in the free play, then back and fourth to turn the wheels a bit. Watch the tie rod ends, and drag link joints and look for slop. Also look for slop in the steering gear box, or the mount. It may be as simple as a new tie rod end, or as expensive as a new steering gear box. Also make sure it is aligned properly. The cross-frame brace is better. If something is worn out and causing the slop, a stabilizer will mask it for a while, but it will get worse and come back.

Overall, it sounds like a solid Jeep. I strongly reccomend trying to fix the little annoyances before going to all-out swaps. You'll find a LOT more headaches swapping motors than simply tuning yours. If you take a picture of your front axle, chances are someone here can identify it for you. Is it

HTH

Carl

Congrats on the Jeep. I've got a `79 CJ-5 with eh 258 in it.

Front disk brakes were optional in 1977, standard equipment from 1978 up.

Pretty much everything on the CJ-5 remained unchanged from the redesign in 1976 through the end of the line in 1983, although the emission controls changed steadily during those years. Most parts are common to both the CJ-5 and the CJ-7, except those that deal with the sheet metal from the door hinges back and of course the drive shaft.

Decades ago, my brother converted his `74 CJ to front disk brakes. As I recall it was a simply bolt-on conversion using boneyard parts. You might have to swap out the hubs, but from the backing plate out it should be a bolt-on job -- Jeep didn't change the steering knuckles. Be sure to change out the proportioning valve located on the inner side of the frame just below the driver's right foot.

Neil wrote:

Admitting you have a problem is the First Step. :) Welcome!

The '79 FSM says front disc brakes were standard.

If it is a '79, then the second character in the VIN will be a 9. The third character identifies the transmission (A=auto F=3spd M=4spd). The seventh character identifies the engine (C=258 H=304).

The FSM says Dana20 was the only t-case in the CJ5 from the factory in '79. Also T-150 (3spd) or T-18A (4 spd) trans.

Maybe. The clock might just have been an option by itself. Did it have a tach?

Frankenjeep.

Get the exhaust out the rear or increase your life insurance.

That sounds like a personal decision. If it were me, I'd stick with the

None that I am aware of. You might even be able to find a Scout or Bronco front D44 with disc brakes.

Stay with the 304.

I can't answer that.

Check the tire pressures, the tire wear, the wheel alignment, and make sure the wheels are round and true.

Unless you're going to go with really big tires, the brace would be a good way to go.

Check for wear & tear first.

All-in-all it sounds like a great Jeep and lots of fun!

Another thing I thought of after posting this is that the evaporative emissions system (charcoal cannister and associated parts) may have something to do with that "raw gas" smell.

Earle

I hadn't thought of that. For the `79 there's a fuel line that runs down the right frame rail and a return line and a vent line that run down the left frame rail. They're all steel and one could be rusted and leaking. There's the vapor cannister system that you mention bolted low in the firewall hard up against the left fender and a roll-over valve/vapor vent valve bolted to a splash shield inside the left rear wheel well. It take two vent lines from the tank and send vapor to the cannister in the front. The splash shield tends to rust out and the valve assembly tends to fall apart, leaving three vent lines dangling in the breeze.

Earle Hort> Another thing I thought of after posting this is that the evaporative