'93 GCherokee 6 Hard Start

D did pass the time by typing:

Pull the engine codes.

Start with the codes.

Thanks Doug. Yeah, I guess this does sound most logical. Codes I get 12, 17, 34, 55

D did pass the time by typing:

How's your engine temp? This can be caused by a failed thermostat valve, dirty connector on the temp sensor, or a bad temp sensor.

Never ran into this code before. Related to the cruise control circuit. You may get problems caused by vacuum leaks. But that would be more along the line of rough idle than no-start.

DougW did pass the time by typing:

Heh.. and I just noticed that link should say coolant-temp... Oh well, the sensor is just one down. :) Now to fix my webpage.

Hi Doug, thanks for the response. I'm going to check and clean all the ground connections tomorrow. I replaced the temp sender last year. That did not fix the problam I was tracking at the time. My gauge is a bust. It only works part time, but I have reason to believe the engine temp is running normally. The 34 code is certainly tied to a pesky vacuum loss somewhere. I have undependable Speed Control. It only works when it feels like it. Been tracking that as I can for awhile too. So far, the ground connections or the CPS seem most suspect. Can I jumper the CPS connector or bypass it to test or is it a replace and try only deal? Thanks. Denny

D did pass the time by typing:

The problem with your cruise control is the solinoid unit. You need to replace the solinoid assembly. But before that, ask a jeep dealer IIRC there was a recall on that issue. (been a while, I forget)

If your gauge is only working part time then you probably have a failing sensor. clean the connector first though. If you have an ohm-meter you can measure the sensor. And if you have a set of resistors you can fake the sensor and watch your temp gauge to see if it is working. (just don't have the jeep running while your doing this).

Depending on what maintenance has been done you may be needing more work done. O2 sensor usually dies about this time but doesn't always throw a code. (when it goes bad you get poor MPG and performance) Typical plug,wire,rotor,cap ignition problems.

One other thing.. check your rotor for play. (usually starts giving you a ticking noise out of the distributor)

Thanks Doug, I did replace the O2 sensor last Fall. Dealer advised of the gauge failing some time ago. Temp, sensor was replaced in the Fall also. Understand about the speed/cruise solonoid. That's for a later fix. Going to be looking at the ground connections today. Wasn't there a Web site or message on these locations? I really appreciate all the help. Denny

D did pass the time by typing:

No problem. That's one of the things I love about this newsgroup. Lots of folks with lots of knowledge. I have learned a lot just by reading this group.

Lower mounting bolt for the coil. I think they switched over to a ground cable so you might have one of those. If you do then you should be fine, never seen one of them go bad.

Hi Doug, thanks. Still no joy. The ground connections are cool as best as I can tell. One thing I noticed just now. I removed the round plate/cover inside the distributor to check if the pickup coil is gapped. The part with the 'vanes' on it, wrapped around the dist. shaft, I think it might be called the reluctor? Anyway, it rotates around the shaft. That doesn't seem quite right to me. This is the thing that times the spark with the pickup coil right? However, if it isn't supposed to rotate independent of the shaft, why would my problem in not starting have increased in severity rather than just not running at all? As always, thanks for the ideas. Denny

D did pass the time by typing:

Let me get this right.. you took off the cap and rotor then removed the two bolts holding the base in there. The one in this pic.

The stator should be fixed in position by a couple of plastic pins. If these seperated you will get problems.

Here is what it looks like. (I made a new page) :)

Doug, Yes, I took off the cap, rotor and the two bolts, then lifted out the 'base' as you say. I called it the plate/cover. The stator is in place and appears ok. Now, around the shaft itself, level with the stator pickups is another piece. It has 5 (yes i just counted them) ridges or high points on it. This piece rotates around the shaft quite freely. I had assumed it to have 6 'ridges' and thought it might have something to do with the reference signal. I called it a 'reluctor' as it closely resembles this part:

Hello Bill, I realize it's a tomato tomahto thing, but you're pretty sharp on Jeeps. Any thoughts on this old lady not starting thread? Thanks Denny

Thanks Bill, I do have good fuel pressure. Just was hoping there was some absolute test I could do on the CPS before digging down to change it.

D did pass the time by typing:

Hmm. I think that's just a spacer. Hard to say without opening mine up, but the only sensor in there is the stator and that plate (which I now understand they call a pulse-ring) Amazing what you can learn from the service manual. :)

Besides, if your timing was off the ZJ would be pinging/backfiring/etc.

I don't believe the distributor is your problem. That temperature sensor fault is the most likely cause. If your Jeep reads it as overheated it will not start or it will go into limp-home mode.

You need to test it with an ohmmeter.

As Bill said, it may be your crankshaft position sensor. Not a cheap part and not easy to get to. (not impossible, but a real pain)

I'm running out of ideas.

I'm not a mechanic and I've never seen a reluctor before but common sense tells me to agree with you. The reluctor should be fixed to the shaft.

Thanks for sticking through this with me Doug. I'm using a digital VOM and out of the temp. sensor am getting 15.3 on the