97 Wrangler 2.5L low oil pressure

The odds are high the engine is fried. Antifreeze eats bearing surfaces which then lowers the oil pressure from too much clearance.

On a 97, a used engine from an accident vehicle (wrecker) may be a better bet than a rebuild cost wise.

If you go the replacement route, then I would get AAA or CAA first, (free tows) add stop leak to the coolant (likely won't help, but may) and change the oil to a thicker one, say 15W40 and just drive it. When the oil looks milky, change it again. Eventually it should fail or start going bang bang bang. Meanwhile I would save up for the engine swap.

If it was a fresh thing and the oil pressure was still OK, then I would investigate it, even a fast compression test can tell you if it is a simple headgasket pop. Heck, just check the plugs, if one is super clean, there's your leaky spot.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail > I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L that is showing oil pressure reading of

Mike's advise is right on the money. A good used engine is what I would do in this case. I have seen people drive engines with the coolant & oil mixed for a long time, but its a gamble as to when it is going to leave you stranded. Plan on putting in a new clutch when you do the engine swap if you are still on the original clutch. Changing the transmission & transfer case oils would be a good idea too. Good luck Glen

One check to see if coolant is present in your engine's motor oil is to remove the oil fill cap, turn the cap over, and look for a light gray or milky colored goo. If you have goo you probably have an internal engine coolant leak.

I personally dislike stop-leak products. They tend to gum up radiators and coolant passages. In all cases they need to be ran untill the engine is fully warmed up then for the recommended distance. Otherwise the stuff can move and solidify in passages or stick the thermostat. "Bar's Leaks Liquid Copper Block & Radiator Sealer" would be my choice.

Now depending on where you live and the humidity, it is possible to get condensate into the oil system. This should be pure water and will evaporate after the oil gets up to temperature.

Low pressure in and of itself can indicate a bad pressure sender. Only a real pressure gauge can tell you if oil pressure is truely low.

As for checking on leaks, there are ways to sample the oil for antifreeze.

auto stores have these. A shop can pressurize the coolant system and watch for pressure drop/leak.

That's about as good as I can do over teh internets. :)

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Some auto stores have these.>

Thanks for the help,

I think I will get some quotes for the new engine. In the meantime just monitor the whole thing. If the oil pressure is truly low would the engine be making noise?

Generally yes, but that's not a good indicator to wait for. I'd go get a fairly inexpensive pressure gauge or have a good local repair shop simply test your pressure. That or pop in a new pressure sender, they are cheap and often fail. Another source of low pressure and problems are Fram oil filters. If you have one of those get rid of it.

Most likely culprit is a BAD GAUGE. Your report is very typical of failed behavior.

When it starts banging is the time to drive real slowly. Until then, straight 40 or 50 weight oil and STP. It's what we did when 300 miles to a quart was considered normal oil consumption.

Assuming the pressure is really low, of course.

Or, it could be a bad sender, had he not also said that he has antifreeze in the oil. Bad senders don't make that happen.