I am in need of advice. I recently bought a '99 TJ and am looking to modify. I am not planning on a LOT of off road but, like to know I can handle about anything I can dish out. I am looking at lock-right lockers for front and rear and wonder if there are better applications? Is there anyway to tell if the rear is a trac-lock without tearing it apart? I am also looking at a teraflex 3" lift. I really would like your opinions on this, pease! I am a first time jeep owner and am already in love with my jeep! Also, hoping to start with something I can upgrade later. Thank you! Dan
To test the rear for what's in there, jack up both wheels and turn one by hand. If the other wheel turns opposite, you have an open diff. If the other wheel turns the same, you have a limited slip or locker.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Is your Jeep a daily driver? If so, then there are much better behaved lockers for the rear axle than the Lockrite. While a Lockrite is great in the front axle, I sure wouldn't think about one for the rear if I drove my TJ every day.
Before you upgrade anything, get some basic recovery gear (hilift jack,
2 ton come-along hand winch, chain, straps, tow hooks) and go off road as much as you can in stock form. Seek out your local Jeep/offroad club and attend some organized runs so you can learn driving technique with recovery/repair help if (when) you need it.
One of the first 'mods' you can make is to disconnect your front sway bar when on the trail. It's free (if rather time consuming). Always reconnect before getting back on the road.
After you get some experience, you'll start to know what sort of upgrades you'll want. Best advice I was ever given was to decide exactly what you want before you start investing and then develop a phased plan to get there. You'll waste the least amount of money this way.
The main decision when building in phases is whether to first lock it or lift it. Sort of depends on your local terrain. Lockers: steep grades. Lift: uneven terrain.
Another sage bit of advice is to lift only as much as required to fit the tires you want. If you are looking at 3" lift, you are likely considering bigger tires. Bigger tires often mean wider wheels with less backspacing. Also, when lifting 3", you'll probably want a slip-yoke eliminator and a new CV drive shaft:
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When the bigger tires go on, you'll likely need lower ratio ring and pinion gears to maintain your RPM/speed ratio:
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Regearing can be costly and usually requires an experienced mechanic ($$$) to do the setup. If your plans include a locker that replaces the ring gear carrier, it may be best to install the locker when you regear.
When choosing lockers, you should consider your local on-road driving conditions. If you see significant snow or ice where you live, you may want to avoid automatic lockers (front and rear) and instead plan on manual lockers (ARB, OX, etc) and/or limited slips. Some automatic lockers (Lockright) fit inside your carrier and don't affect the ring & pinion setup. You can install them yourself pretty easily. Some people routinely remove them in the winter and put them back in after the thaw.
Another important consideration is your rear axle assembly. Adding large tires and a locker to a Dana 35 is a recipe for breakage. If you have a Dana 35, you should upgrade it or find a replacement such as a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8 before you invest in gears and lockers:
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If you're not quite ready to jump on the slippery slope, you might want to look at a budget boost, slightly-larger-than-stock tires in an offroad AT or MT pattern, and a lockright or two. Rocker rails and skid plates would help if you stay low and won't be a wasted investment if you later lift higher.
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