broken rear driveshaft

My '88 jeep Grand Wagon was making an unusual shudder this morning. On my way home for lunch, it started making sounds like it was coming apart and then it wouldn't accelerate. I was able to pull it off into a grassy field. I looked under it and the rear drive shaft is no longer connected at the rear of the transmission. It's broken off and resting on the ground. I want to try to put it in 4 wheel and drive it home in front wheel drive (only 5 minutes from where it's now parked). Anyone know if it's easy to remove the drive shaft from where it's connected in the rear? I can't move it now if I wanted to because the front of the drive shaft it plowing into the ground.

Reply to
Mark Corbelli
Loading thread data ...

Yes, you can drive in front wheel drive no problem. If your transfer case has a slip yoke, you need to cap the hole. I have heard that a WD40 top fits right on some or even tie a plastic bag over it.

If you have a fixed yoke and the driveshaft was supposed to unbolt from the t-case, no issues, drive.

I have driven in FWD up to 55-60 mph no problem, same speed I would go on the highway in 4x4 in the winter.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > My '88 jeep Grand Wagon was making an unusual shudder this morning. On my
Reply to
Mike Romain

OK, I tied up the rear driveshaft with a bungee to the tailpipe. I put it in 4 wheel and easily drove it home. I'd like to fix this eventually. But one thing I noticed, when I put it in park, the pawl didn't seen to catch as it seemed like it was drifting forward. I put the parking brake on. Does having no rear driveshaft affect the parking pawl, or do I have several problems now?

Reply to
Mark

Unless you disconnect the rear driveshaft from the rear axle, your bungee will eventually wear through and you'll be back at square one.

THe parking pawl shouldn't be affected but there is probably a lot more "slop" in the front driveline, hence the drift. More than likely the problems aren't related. How far did it drift?

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

Yes, I understand that this is a temporary fix just to get the car home. I plan on removing the entire rear driveshaft (or re-attaching it if it salvageable). As far as the drift, when it didn't appear like it was stopping I put on the parking brake so I don't know. I'll have time to get more into this over the weekend.

Reply to
Mark

What kind of four wheel drive do you have? I am guessing CommandTrac or SelecTrac because you have distinct two wheel drive and four wheel drive options, from your description. Be aware that the front drive axle is not designed for full time use as a front wheel drive vehicle. Also, if you plan to drive the vehicle any more, even to a repair shop, you should remove that rear drive shaft from the rear axle. You will have to do so anyway, I expect, to repair it, and it will fall on the ground again when that bungee strap wears out.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Wow, my apologies I wasn't clearer. I should have said it is OK to drive it with the rear driveshaft 'removed'.

You are very lucky the bunjee cord held, when the driveshaft drops on the ground like that it can hook and flip the vehicle.

There are only 4 bolts to take out to get the driveshaft off, I would recommend that before driving more.

That said, I had to wait several weeks before I could fix mine and drove it around no problem, just go easy on the throttle on corners.

The drift in park implies your other 5 front U-joints need attention. That would be the slop in one or more of them being taken up as it drifts.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Romain

OK so it was easy to get the rear driveshaft off. The car goes in front wheel drive but it labors a bit. I'm not driving it unless it's an emergency. Now, I have to decide if it's worth fixing. The car drifts in park now, so I'm wondering if the transmission linkage got off when the driveshaft was banging around under the car. It doesn't seem like it's going all the way into park, although I could be imagining that. The coupling both at the front of the rear driveshaft and at the rear of the transfer case is shot. So I'll need the driveshaft plus that. I wonder if that's still available or do I have to go find one at a junkyard. The coupling at the rear of the transfer case looks like it's held on with a single large nut. I hope all I would have to do is get that off to replace the coupling.

Reply to
Mark Corbelli

The coupling part is called a Yoke and it holds the u-joints.

It is pretty normal to destroy a yoke when the u-joint blows out. Sometimes you get lucky and recognize that clunk noise when you put it in drive or reverse as a u-joint going bad before it blows out, sometimes not...

I have had to replace 2 yokes on my CJ7, one on the rear t-case or transfer case like yours and one on a front axle which means I needed half an axle.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:
formatting link
Reply to
Mike Romain

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.