HELP! Broken down on trail, how do they remove the rear driveshaft?!?

A buddy of mine just called from the trail (Tuttle Creek ORV, 2.5 hours from here) and said that an 02 WJ Overland had the fan seize for some unknown reason and the engine overheated. They're going to have to tow it back. Before towing it 180 miles or so, they were going to remove the rear driveshaft (only the rear as they will be towing with the front wheels in a dolly).

The WJ has the 247 transfer case with quadradrive. What tools do they need to remove the driveshaft? How do they do it? I'm their only resource and they are waiting for a call back. Help!

Thanks,

Eric

Reply to
Eric
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Not sure about the wrench sizes, but a set of sockets and open end wrenches should do it for you... An adjustable end wrench (aka Crescent Wrench) might also be useful in case you don't have the right size open end wrench... If it is anything like my XJ, it should consist of unbolting the U-joint and then the drive shaft will slip out of the front...

Reply to
Grumman-581

Reply to
Eric

Heh, Crescent wrench in the dark, trying to remove a drive shaft... I don't envy these guys one bit.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

I finally got a call back, and they weren't sure what to do once they got those 4 bolts off. They said it didn't seem like it was ready to come off. I'm guessing there is a need for a BFH here, right?

Reply to
Eric

Well, one would assume that if they can get the wrenches that they could get a decent light... One of the Q-beam type lights should make it bearable enough to work under there... Still, I would try using a socket first, then the open or closed end wrenches, then if nothing fit, the adjustable end wrench... One would also assume that they didn't bother with attempting this while in an awkward place on the trail, that they perhaps got back to the road or a relatively flat / solid surface before attempting it... Basically,

4 bolts to remove and a nudge with a mallet or small pry bar to get it unstuck should do it... Probably less trouble than changing a tire... At least you don't have to get the tire off the top of the vehicle or jack the vehicle up to do it...
Reply to
Grumman-581

...and probably land on your head if you're lying under the vehicle... Tell them to get to the side before they pry it loose.

Reply to
TJim

Halfway down Poughkeepsie Gulch north of Silverton four years ago shortly before night fall I came across a group of locals clustered around a Scout with one of its rear axles sticking out a foot or more from where it should have been. One of them was underneath with some tools trying to put the C-clip back. I asked whether they needed help and one of them asked me to go home and call her mother, saying that all would be home a little late...

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

The 231 hasn't been that way since '96. Your TJ's 231 won't leak if the driveshaft is removed.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Bransford

Thanks, Jerry, I hadn't realized that. TJim

Reply to
TJim

Don't know much about the transmission / transfer case numbers and such... My '95 XJ did not leak when I had to pull my rear driveshaft to replace my U-joint...

Reply to
Grumman-581

It won't leak unless you try to drive it using the front wheels only. The rear output shaft is way higher than the correct fluid level, but when you drive it fluid goes everywhere inside.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Well, I haven't been desperate enough to try to make my XJ into a front wheel drive vehicle, so I haven't experienced that... I take it that some people have done this because of problems on the trail and they had to limp home in 4WD with equates to front wheel drive when the rear drive shaft is removed? Duct tape over the opening?

Reply to
Grumman-581

You can buy a plug to fit over the end of the output shaft. Duct tape isn't so great for this application. :o)

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

(snip)

Don't let Red Green hear you say that...............

Reply to
Johnathan Marrin

Oh, I forgot to mention... The mosquitos were eating me alive also...

Reply to
Grumman-581

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