I've just bought a ZX (M reg, 1.9D) and have found (although it wasn't
apparent on the test drive) that one of the UJs is knocking on tight
left hand corners. Caveat Emptor. Anyway as I haven't got the Haynes BoL
yet, how easy is a driveshaft change on one of these beasts. Do I need
such things as ball joint splitters and the like? It's the right hand
side if it makes any difference.
The RH one has an intermediate support bearing which has to be released.
11mm nuts, just undo them most of the way and push the studs back and turn
them 90 degrees to release bearing. Sometimes you might need a little heat
on the alloy bearing carrier to release it.
You will of course have to drain the gearbox oil. And look at the driveshaft
seal on the box for signs of leaking as it is sensible to replace this while
the shaft is out.
Apart from that, you will have to release the bottom swivel ball joint in
order to pull the hub off the shaft.
The most difficult part is undoing the d/s nut, which is normally quite
tight. However, I always use a large ring spanner and club hammer, works
every time for me.
Haven't actually done a ZX, but have done several 306s which are the same I
Yes, and you will probably need to replace it with a *new* nut, most
are use-once, metal-lock / nylock nuts might be reusable but penned
nuts (those with a tube like extension) MUST be replaced.
I would add though, if you don't have the tools to undo the above nut
without difficulty you probably don't have the tools to tighten the
nut correctly, if it's not correctly tightened you could be talking
about a failed wheel bearing very quickly and at worse a wheel and hub
Job Done. Only took 3 hours mainly due to lack of 35mm socket (not 32mm)
necessary to remove the drive shaft nut and fiddling around with those
blessed turny nut things on the intermediate bearing. I can see why they
say to grease the intermediate bearing when you replace the shaft. Some
swine hadn't and it was a right pig to beat out. The daft thing was
though, all the splines and wheel nuts were coated with copper slip, so
why forget the intermediate bearing?
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