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Carburetor woes

I'm having trouble with my carburetor and know NOTHING about setting up a carb so I was hoping to get some input from y'all on this. I have a '76 CJ5 with 304 V8 in it. I put on an edelbrock performer intake manifold and a Holley 670 Truck Avenger carb. I had problems with it initially but that turned out to be a vacuum leak. After finding that leak I must have gotten excited to have the Jeep running again so I didn't look at everything as closely as I should have. Last weekend while offroading my Jeep stalled out on me while I was idling waiting for a guy in front of me to get un-stuck. I smelled gas really strong and it seemed my Jeep was flooded out. I took off the air cleaner and let it sit about 5 minutes and was then able to start it right up. One of the guys there was watching, though, and told me that there was a lot of gas just getting dumped into the carb. A few minutes ago I was in the garage and decided to take a look. I pulled the air cleaner off and put on my remote starter and started the Jeep up. Please take a look at this picture:

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2-3 seconds of starting up the Jeep, I saw large drops of fueldripping pretty fast down into the carb from the two circled spots atthe bottom of the picture. The guy the other weekend on the trailsaid he saw fuel dripping fromthe holes in that cross-bar piece thatis circled at the top of the picture. When I first put the carb on I*did* fiddle a little bit with the fuel mixture and also the floatlevels. I have a suspicion that I may know what is wrong but don'twant to say because I'd hate to say and be completely wrong and havewhat I say influence your responses in any way. Can someone who hasan idea of what is wrong let me know their opinion? Thank you inadvance for input. Oh yeah, even after turning the engine off itcontinued to drip fuel from those two bottom places for 4-5 seconds.

Reply to
Shaggie
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I'm not a carb guru by any means but I'm not afraid to be wrong! Is there a chance that your tank has too much pressure or your return line is clogged/pinched? It looks like the carb is being force fed.

-Brian

Reply to
Cherokee-LTD

Don't ya just love setting float levels.... ;-)

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

"Shaggie" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

You have a float level that is too high, or a needle and seat that are stuck. See if you are getting the same drippage on the back two venturis (your circled spots). If it is just the front ones doing it, then the front float is the culprit. The nice thing about Holley carbs is that you can easily pull the needle and seat to inspect it. Just loosen the lock screw and turn the needle out. Check to make sure it is clean. It only takes one little piece of dirt to mess it up. I would suggest carrying a spare. Once you've verified that it is clean, screw the needle back in until you feel it hit the float. You'll feel a little resistance because you will be trying to push the float down into the gas that's in the bowl. Once you're there, give it about another half turn and replace the locking screw. Remove the float level screw (the one on the side of the bowl) and have a rag ready. If the level is high you will get some spillage. Then, with the rag still there to catch spillage, rock the vehicle from side to side until the fuel level is a bit lower than the sight hole. Dry up any spilled gas and start the engine, but be ready to either shut it off or catch more spillage in case the seat isn't sealing. Once you get the engine running where there isn't gas gushing out the hole, then you can adjust the level properly. If it is trickling out the hole, turn the needle and seat in 1/4 turn and rock the vehicle again to get the level down. Once it stays below the sight hole, then you can raise the needle slightly intil you just get the bottom of the threads in the sight hole wet. This is the ideal setting. I wouldn't be afraid to run it

1/16-1/8" low considering what a typical Jeep goes through.

Try this and post back with how you turned out.

Chris

Reply to
c

Dammit, I just looked at that pic again. If the back venturis are the ones leaking, then you need to do the procedure on the back float, not the front one. It would be a good idea to check the front one once you get the leaker sorted out.

Chris

Reply to
c

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

The float level was too high. I suspected that's what it was but figured since I was just guessing that it wouldn't hurt to ask you guys. Wow, if only *all* fixes were that easy. I just duplicated the problem twice in a row, then lowered the level and it seems to be fine now. It had gotten to where it wouldn't idle well because of all of the gas being dumped in there. I drove it a couple of miles after lowering the level, too, and it did great. Idled nice and smooth when I got home and revved all the way to 4000 RPM out on the road without hesitation. Thanks!!!

Reply to
Shaggie

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Glad you got it sorted.

Chris

Reply to
c

L.W. (ßill) Hughes III did pass the time by typing:

I like the webber >>

Reply to
DougW

Should I put a plastic one on there? Like the one that ruptured and caused my engine fire? ;-) It has a filter built into the inlet that is "supposed" to be enough. Anyone else agree that an extra inline filter would be a good idea? Thank you.

Reply to
Shaggie

On a Jeep, yes.

I always get some dust or bits of mud/dirt around my gas cap so some falls in every time it opens.

I always carry a spare filter too.

You also could have vapor lock issues without the dual outlet filter and the return line.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Shaggie wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Some filters

Holley highflow

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Cobra
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Vortec
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Reply to
DougW

Holy crap, those are expensive. :-( How about this one?

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all of us (unfortunately) have unlimited funds to put into ourhobbies. :-)

Reply to
Shaggie

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

How about the stock one? Jeep kinda figured it would do the job and it's cheap.

I don't like the one in the link, it can fit 5/16, so it could restrict your flow some. Replacement element is nice though....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

Yep, they are expensive but in retrospect it depends on what your protecting and how expensive that is to fix. Carbs clog but can be fixed. You get dirt into an injector and if you don't burn that piston from lean running your at least out 60-80$ if it kills the injector.

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That's not a real big filter like the others. The pictures on Edelbrock's site gives some reference. Those others are about

4 1/2" long and 1 1/2" in diameter and will filter much longer before clogging.

You should see the price for my filter. 23$ each. At least they last for a good long time.

Reply to
DougW

If the filter you are taling about being "good enough" is the brass one installed behind the fuel fitting, then you need to upgrade it. Holley even recommends this in their tuning books. Get a good metal inline fuel filter and take the bronze one out of the carb.

Chris

Reply to
c

Bill, I have to disagree here. The 5/16" line will feed a Holley 670 with no problem. the restriction in the Holley is the needle diameter at 0.110". The bigger line won't hurt anything, but he really doesn't need it as long as his fuel pump pushes a quart of fuel in 15-20 seconds. This is enough fuel to feed a 300hp engine.

Chris

Reply to
c

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