CJ Brake light switch - moan and groan

The brake lights used to work - I checked them before I bought it 2-3 weeks ago. Don't ask how I found out they *weren't* working....

The point of this is to moan about what an inconvenient place the brake light switch is located. After taking out the driver seat, using a piece of wood to keep the clutch pedal on the floor, and doing some general tongue calisthenics, I was finally able to *touch* the switch!!!

I loosened it, not daring to actually remove it from the connector, and sprayed some contact cleaner hoping that's all that was wrong.

The brakes worked ... until I drove to work this morning. I wiggled wires and it went back on ... and off again. Guess I'll have to learn more about the CJ's wiring than I hoped this early into it.

Anyway, just moaning ... I'm sure there are harder to get to parts, but that one didn't seem to NEED to be that hard to get to. :)

Rob '83 CJ-7

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Rob
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Reply to
aGraham

And that's the scary part. The wires that I wiggle and it the lights seem to work a little ... don't seem to be related to the switch wires at all. Egads!

I like your description about the disco lights. My left turn signal stays on when the lights are on. High beam only works. when I go to low beam, the whole dash and headlights go out (I don't switch to low beam anymore. :) The voltmeter bounces around when a turn signal is on - which functions quite well as a turn signal reminder! And of course there are a number of guages that don't work. I knew most of this when I bought it. Just part of the fun, right?

Rob

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Rob

And likely an easy couple of fixes too.

You are describing ground stealing.

First clean up or replace the rotten mesh ground strap that goes from the back of the head to the firewall. There is another mesh strap that goes from one side of the engine mount to the other as well.

Then go to the back light fixture where the signal is punky and remove it from the Jeep and clean up the bolts holding it on. These bolts are the ground for the brakes and signals. Check the bulb while in there to make sure the glass hasn't fallen loose from the brass base. If one side is that rotted, it can't hurt to do them both. (I soldered a wire directly onto the base holder for the bulb and ran a dedicated ground when I did my 'glass body build, maybe that is easier than getting the rusty bolts out?)

The running lights use their own ground which is a wire. It terminates on a bolt for the rear lights at the end of the harness and on the front grill for the front lights.

The haynes CJ manual has excellent wiring schematics. I have rewired a few CJs and even a YJ 258 using that book.

Meanwhile, if you do the above, your troubles might just all go away.

'And' you can leave that damn switch alone. ;-)

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Rob wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Excellent ... thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know what I find out.

The motor was replaced about 8-9 years ago, and a paint job about 5 years ago. The owner did it all himself and replaced a bunch of parts in the process. His wiring job, for example, looks horrendous!!

I hope your suggestions will keep me from "going in". It's scary!

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Rob

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Jim85CJ

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Jim85CJ

Does your gas gauge work?

Mike

Jim85CJ wrote:

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Mike Romain

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Jim85CJ

Check the oil sender unit, they get flaky and are cheap to replace.

Mike

Jim85CJ wrote:

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Mike Romain

Reply to
Jim85CJ

Yup, you only need the top piece.

The bottom piece is a pressure switch that turns on the choke and manifold heater.

Mike

Jim85CJ wrote:

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Mike Romain

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