Reverse light switch - R380 gearbox.

The reversing light on my 1997 D90 300Tdi stopped working a while ago and I decided to sort it today.

I removed the centre seat and panel underneath and could then locate the switch by feel. Without being a contortionist, it would seem very difficult to get at it from below. I shorted out the female connector and the reverse light came on, so the electrics are OK.

Google says this switch is not adjustable. Is this correct? The one on the LT77 apparently is. Whether it is or not, it is going to be a sod to get out. I got a flattish 19mm ring spanner onto it by threading the wiring and connector through the spanner but I couldn't get it to turn because the spanner snagged on the side of the gear box. Either I need a cranked ring spanner or I need to make up a special tool with an old 19mm socket and a piece of bar. Or, if the switch really has to be replaced, I can cut off the wires and use a socket. Google makes mention of a "special tool". Any ideas what that looks like?

Of course, after all this fiddling around, the reverse switch decided to work. Frankly, I don't trust it and, depending on advice here, would prefer to go for a replacement switch.

Any comments? Am I on the right track?

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue
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IIRC the R380 switch is indeed non-adjustable ... and a right barsteward to replace.

Have fun :-))

Reply to
SteveG

"SteveG wrote in news:wqgye.62639$ snipped-for-privacy@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk:

Thanks for the encouragement! :(

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue

Derry Argue wrote in news:Xns9689EB893EC17derryadviegundogscou@130.133.1.4:

Update on the above.

Once I knew the switch was not adjustable, removal was simple. A faulty switch just has to be replaced -- cost about £13.50 including VAT. So just snip the wires close to the switch, and unscrew using a 19mm socket and ratchet.

Putting in the new switch is less straight forward. You can screw it in with your fingers but tightening it is a problem. Your socket and ratchet won't work because of the leads going into the top of the switch. These are fixed and you can't pull them off as you can with the LT77 switch. There isn't room to use an open ended spanner or a ring spanner. A short box spanner might do the job but I did not try.

My fix was to get an old 19mm socket (or, in my case, a 3/4AF socket which is the same thing) and cut a 1/4 inch slit down one side with a grinder using a cutting disc. Now you can get the socket on the switch and trail the leads out through the slot. If you merrily screw the switch home, you could screw up the wires, so I removed the socket after each 1/4 turn, straightened out the wires and tightened another 1/4 turn. I was able to torque the switch down reasonably firmly using this method and it was an easy job.

Hope this helps someone!

BTW, I gather the adjustable switch (on the LT77) now comes with an over- sized "locking ring". This ring is screwed down on the switch before it is inserted and it is automatically at the correct depth -- so the switch is now effectively "non-adjustable", if you see what I mean!

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue

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