Driveline vibration solved - mostly

Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me

11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to position the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to back).

Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a 2

1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable. Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.

Thanks to all,

Bill

Reply to
William Oliveri
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Reply to
Steve

No. I more or less guessed and got pretty close. They only offered a 4 degree shim and a 2 1/2 degree shim so I guessed at the 2 1/2 degree shim.

You mean to determine if my shaft is within the 15 degree angle?

Bill

Reply to
William Oliveri

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

Go to the hardware store and get an angle finder (they don't cost much) to see how close you got on your slipyoke/pinion angles. Maybe you can get them closer. Have you tried running with no shims? You did drop the tcase skid 3/4", right? If your slipyoke/pinion angles are indeed bang on, then your steep drive shaft angle is likely the cause of remaining vibes and you'll know you've done all you can short of a fixed yoke and double cardan shaft.

Steve

William Oliveri wrote:

Reply to
Steve

Exactly. Before I went the shim route, the angle at the pinion and driveshaft was virtually non-existent. About 0 degrees. Would have been perfect for the CV Shaft only I don't have an extra 400.00 for the shaft and yolk to spend at this time. The 11.00 shim set is a worthy fix for now.

Bill

Reply to
William Oliveri

Heh, heh, me again...... ;-)

That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!

Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a 'big' impact gun.

Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques, some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.

And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my pinion done....

It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.

Just so you know....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Well, If it's 400.00 to do yours it Must be 800.00 to 1000.00 to do mine here in SoCal.

Thanks for letting me know :-)

Bill

Reply to
William Oliveri

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