Engine swap

If it is early 80's it will have a computer controlled carb. This can easily be set up to run manually. The mix screws are there under caps or plugs and the computer mix motor can be just set full rich and let the screws do their thing.

The 80's manifold and carb are also likely 2bbl vs the 1 bbl on the 70's engine.

Those are the only odd things that come to my mind, otherwise it is a bolt in.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ed Huesers wrote:

Hey Mike and Bill, Thanks. I sold my CJ5 to a friend and it turns out that it has a sticking valve. The friend has a chance to pick up an engine for free and is thinking about swapping engines instead of fixing the head. I've passed your info on to him and that should help him out. I'm going to miss the jeep but I can't see paying the insurance for the little I drove it.

Ed Huesers

Ed, you also might mention that a hard rap with a rubber mallet or putting a piece of 2x4 on it and hitting with a steel hammer while it is warm and running can lots of times pop a stuck hydraulic valve. You hit on top of the pushrod. A quart of ATF in the oil also can loosen them up.

Mike

Ed Huesers wrote:

Thanks, I'll mention it. I think he has already tried the ATF. He was impressed with the links Bill posted.

Ed Huesers

Hi All, A DYI valve job is not really that much. Once you get the head off and give it to a qualified machine shop it can run $100 to $200. An upper gasket set is about $70 (give the valve seats out of this set to the machine shop or it will cost you more). If you take the jeep to a mechanic to have it done, it could run you upwards of $700+. I did one this summer on a 4.0L on my 97 TJ. thanks, paul