@^$%#$! Gauges!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alright...I'm so damn frustrated I feel like taking my .45 to my Jeep! My CJ was in need of a new fuel gauge. I tried grounding the wire and couldn't get the darn thing to move no matter what. I checked the ohms on the sender and get about 20 ohms on a more than 1/2 tank...seems okay there. It's an aftermarket gauge so I'm not sure if the posts are switched around. To be safe I also bought a new temp gauge also. So tonight I hooked everything up, turned the key and the needle spiked on the fuel gauge. I turned the key back because I didn't want to blow the gauge...I know I don't have a completely full tank. I changed the wires on the back of the fuel gauge, turned the key and same thing. I pulled the pink wire off and grounded it to check the ohms again on the sender. I left it off and started the jeep to see if the temp gauge worked. Again without the pink wire on...the fuel gauge spiked. I reach up under to pull the hot wire and got some sparks. Now I'm not sure if the damn new gauge is toast or not. I quit after that. Any insight to this $%#@! problem? Thanks! Allen

Reply to
<ABanks5
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On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 01:12:17 GMT, shared the following:

Screw the .45. Break out the real deal.

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-- Travis

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unto others. Then split.Happy trails!!! :wq!

Reply to
travis

Maybe this might help... it is for the CJ series but you never know.

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Reply to
Jeepster

Man... nice carpet!

-- JimG

80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

Reply to
JimG

OK... calm down... What do you mean "after market gauge... does it fit in the OEM cluster? What do you mean you grounded the pink wire to check ohms?... that would be the wire that goes to the sender.

-- JimG

80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

Reply to
JimG

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

Reply to
twaldron

Short in the wiring between the gauge and sender?

I don't know if there's anything for you here:

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Reply to
Jay Stuler

Yeah, as stated in the monsterslayer site: "To be sure the problem is not the gauge, you can momentarily short the (pink) wire on the output of the sender to ground, and this should show up as FULL on your gauge."

Allen

Reply to
<ABanks5

I grounded the pink wire from the sender to the gauge as it's stated in the monsterslayer site. Not to check the ohms...to see if the gauge would move...sorry. It didn't move. Yeah...the gauges fit the cluster fine....they're just not the original manufacturer. Allen

Reply to
<ABanks5

No, that would show a full tank all the time when all connected up. He says it shows full with the pink wire loose:

Easy enough to check - measure the pink wire for the 20 ohms under the dash all the way back to the sender (with the pink wire off the back of the gauge).

JimG

Reply to
JimG

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 03:08:40 GMT, "JimG" shared the following:

heh heh

-- Travis

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unto others. Then split.Happy trails!!! :wq!

Reply to
travis

Improper use of terms - you should say "connected" the pink wire from the sender to the gauge.

Now I am a little confused - what do mean when you say spiked? Are you saying with all wires hooked up it reads full? What does it read with the pink wire disconnected from the back of the gauge?

If the gauge is made for the OEM cluster, you can be sure the posts are not reversed.

JimG

Reply to
JimG

The only thing I can think of is the gauge is maybe missing or needs a separate voltage regulator.

Stock the gauge runs on 5 volts. Put 12 volts to it and it will pin out full.

I designed an electronic voltage regulator for mine to try and get around a bad mechanical one. In my case the mechanical one seems to work, I have a bad connection on one of the posts where it is connected to the board inside so I only get 3 volts or so usually.

If you want I could send you the schematics for the electronic regulator.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@columbus.rr.com wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Grounded is what term is used in the monsterslayer site....I think that's fitting because that's basically what I'm doing is grounding out the pink wire. Anyway, yeah spiked means pegged full in this case. With the pink wire disconnected it even reads full. I got 20 ohms when from the pink wire right off the gauge...grounded it out and read 20 ohms....with 1/2 tank or slightly more. Here is where I picked up the gauges:

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I'll go back tonight and see what damage I've done if any. The thing,..and correct me if I'm wrong...is that I can't even tell if the temp gauge works without the hot wire being on the fuel gauge right?? I don't want to leave it on because it pegs the fuel gauge to full and I think that's wrong...possibly damaging the gauge. Thanks! Allen

Reply to
<ABanks5

It sounds like either defective gauge or a wiring problem. Make sure the case of the cluster is grounded (attached to frame ground), and 12V is on the I terminal (ignition on). Also check for 5V on both A terminals (the strap). Whish I was there to help you... electronics is my business.

JimG

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Reply to
JimG

Any progress here? JimG

Reply to
JimG

Yeah! Seems like the guage wants to go to full when the key is turned..hang there a few seconds...then drop down to where it should be. Strange. So everything looks good so far. I'll test it when I go fill up the tank and see if it registers any different. Allen

Reply to
<ABanks5

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