I hate beating this dead horse but...am I to understand that the jumper between the fuel and temp is to get the power over from the fuel to the temp gauge? And if this is the case,...if the fuel gauge is bad, will it send power to the temp gauge? In otherwords,..if the fuel gauge goes bad, does the temp gauge then also fail to read? Allen
Naw, the fuel gauge only has the 12 volt power tag, then the mechanical voltage regulator inside the fuel gauge kicks in and 5 volts goes to both gauges via that strap.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
The jumper is to get the regulated 5V to the temperature gauge. The fuel gauge does not have to work for the temperature to work as long as the regulator works.
-- JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
But isn't there only one hot wire going to the fuel gauge? And then if that wire somehow does not get juice, it doesn't jump over to the temp gauge,..is that a correct assumption?? thanks Allen
Not necessarily... the 12V at the fuel gauge terminal I provides input to the regulator. Do you have a volt meter? Simply measure for the 12V at fuel gauge I terminal. If it is there, then measure at temperature gauge A terminal for 5V (should be same as fuel gauge terminal A). Does the fuel gauge work? You seem to be stuck on the that.
I do have a volt meter but I'm a complete idiot when it comes to using it. I can't seem to get the reading...or even close...even making heads or tails out of the readings from it. The fuel gauge does not work and I've all but given up on that so now I'm focusing on the temp gauge. I've tried measuring the resistance and grounding out the pink wire but got no where. Does the jeep need to be running or can you have the key all the way forward to take readings? Thanks!
The key does have to be on. Put the meter away until you learn how to use it.
OK, Fuel gauge: If you can get to the pink wire on the fuel sender at the tank (body lift makes this easy), take it loose and touch it to ground, check the gauge, if it goes to full you have a bad sender and the voltage to the gauge is OK. If not then there is no volts at the gauge or the gauge is bad. Usually it is the sender.
Temp gauge: If fuel gauge went to full in above test, continue. (If not then you need to get volts to the fuel/temp gauge before continuing) Pull the wire from the temp. sender at the back of the block and touch it to ground, look at temp gauge. If it goes to hot then you have a bad temp. sender. If not then, the regulator/gauge is bad. Replace the fuel/temp cluster.
To find out if it's a voltage regulator issue, you need to put a multimeter on the strap between the gauges. If you have 5 volts there then you need to look at the senders.
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