Go to MOPAR for a serpentine belt...?

I am going to get a spare serpentine belt before my big elk hunting trip in a couple weeks here. Should I go to the dealer, or get one from an auto parts store? I'm happy to pay more FOR MORE QUALITY. Just want to make sure that's the case with these belts.

Also going to get a spare headlight. Any other spares I should get? Vehicle is a '97 TJ with 4.0L engine, 68K miles, runs great.

Thanks!!

-jeff

Reply to
Jeff Olsen
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Gates, Goodyear, and Dayco make probably 95% of the belts out there. Most of the OEM belts are made by one of these 3 as well, and are just labeled with the Mopar part number. The auto parts store will save you some bucks without any loss of quality.

Chris

Reply to
c

spares... let's see... here is what i would pack on a long trip in my jeep: fuses - these are cheap! hose clamps (2 of each size - heater and radiator) radiator hose (upper and lower) heater hose (a couple feet should work) couple quarts of oil couple feet of wire alligator clips for above wire light bulbs (brake, turn, etc) brake fluid tranny fluid (gear oil?) couple u-joints oh yeah, we can't forget the most important thing: beer.

8~)>

-- bob z.

"people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things everyday"©

Reply to
bob zee

I wouldn't think twice on this one. Get it from the easiest place to get it at. The belts will be the same for all practicle purposes. Frankly, you should be able to inspect the belt you have, and if you suspect it is going to break before you get home, replace it now and don't worry about it anymore. If there is no indication that it is worn out, it isn't going to change much on a relatively short hunting trip.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Approximately 10/15/03 22:54, Jeff Olsen uttered for posterity:

If you suspect your serpentine, I'd go ahead and change it before you leave. If you still have the original, it is getting where I wouldn't trust it. If changed at 60K, a spare won't hurt anything, but willing to bet it will rot before it is needed.

Spare fuses, one or more really strong lanterns *not* powered by your electrical system. Good shovel. Good cable chains just in case. A good HiLift or ComeAlong. Coupla tow straps. Food.

Reply to
Lon Stowell

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

Don't forget duct tape! Saved us many a time... extra gallons of water (those used 3-liter bottles work great for that). I presume he'll be taking a toolkit, for installing those U-joints.

Elks need to see turn signals? __ Steve .

Reply to
Stephen Cowell

Better watch it... those belts stretch when new, and you'll have him stuck in the woods with a slipping new belt. You have to install it, tighten to spec, then run it for a while (several days?) then tighten again. __ Steve .

Reply to
Stephen Cowell

Gates is the brand I like to see... most places sell 'em. Check the belt for shelf dry-rot... take it and bend it back and forth, looking for cracks (I've bought new dry-rotted belts before). Dealer spark plug wires are really good... dealer belts are not so much better. __ Steve .

Reply to
Stephen Cowell

OK, this might be a stupid question since I don't own my Jeep yet, but doesn't the serpentine setup have a spring loaded belt tensioner pulley like all of the other makes?

Chris

Reply to
c

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

I have preference for OEM on some stuff and those belts are one of them. I just replaced mine for the first time on my 98XJ. It was starting to get kind of funky looking at 180,000mi so I figured 'why not', Two tools you will find useful. First is the 15mm wrench to loosen the idler pully under and to the left of the power steering pump, that lets you loosen the adjuster bolt to remove it. Mac makes one that is about 24" long and can reach that T%$(*%&$# bolt without having to remove the electric fan, $35 for the wrench and it has an open end and the other end is a ratchet type box wrench. I'm picking up one next week, no more looking like I was playing with a cat. Second is a belt tension gauge, NAPA has them for about $14, they are called the KrikitII and fit in your pocket like a pen, very useful. New belt you adjust to 190lbs, used belt you adjust to 160lbs, new belt is defined as one that has been run less then 15 minutes. After 3 weeks mine is sitting at 170lbs. Now if Good Year made them in that neat looking blue it might be a different story :-) While your in there you might consider replacing your mechanical fan clutch, mine like yours is getting up there in age and common consensus seems to be about a 5 year life. Might even want to consider a coolant change and a good cleaning, new OEM thermostat and pressure cap. I do mine every 2 years and use that 7 hour flush from prestone, I don't want to break crap free that took two years to grow there in 10 minutes. I settle for a more gentle method and it works well. I also use mopar coolant, heard of too many people loosing a water pump after using an aftermarket brand or maybe I just see them posting more than success stories...

" Stephen Cowell" wrote in news:mTHjb.922$XZ1.753 @newssvr22.news.prodigy.com:

Reply to
Rich Pierson

I believe if you forego power steering you get the springy belt tensioner... who would do that? __ Steve .

Reply to
Stephen Cowell

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

I don't know about the elks, but those squirrels will sure give you a hard time if you turn without a signal...

-r8~)>

-- bob z.

"people with less brain power than you are doing more difficult things everyday"©

Reply to
bob zee

I woudn't know that because my Jeep has Vbelts, and the BMW uses a spring loaded tensioner.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

I would get my belts from the corner auto parts store, and not give it a second thought. The odds of breaking a belt on any given trip are very low, the odds of breaking both are even lower. If your current belt is old enough to give you pause to worry, install the new one while you are still at home, and carry the old one as a spare.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Sorry, I am recovering my news client settings, and failed to notice I was replying to a post fro a year ago.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

we had better blame you in a year from now, then :-)

Reply to
Dave Milne

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