Intake manifold removal

I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my 91yj 4.O

I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4, 2, 1 and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page

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I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the way. Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque them to spec?

For anyone who has done this how did you remove and torque those 4 bolts?

Reply to
ufatbasted
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I used a 'wobbler' extension. This has a curved connector to the socket so it can be used on about a 30 degree angle. A normal extension has a square end something like |____| that. The wobbler is something like (____) shape.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my 91yj 4.O >
Reply to
Mike Romain

So you removed those bolts with the intake manifold on. Did you get them from the bottom or top?

I must be nuts as I can't even find them all. Going to have to take another look.

Reply to
ufatbasted

Reply to
RoyJ

By hand, or with a crowfoot and math. When you use an offset on a torque wrench, you change the torque that is applied depending on how things are lined up. It's a real pain in the ass.

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Keep in mind I'm talking about my ZJ here.

The injector rail doesn't have to come off, just the connections. But watch the gas, there is quite a bit in there. I went ahead and took the injectors out, replaced the O rings (use new ones and lube with motor oil), and cleaned the intake rail, TB, etc.

NOTE: Don't stick things into the injectors spray cone. Let the noses sit in TB cleaner and shake the dirt off. (that or take them to any diesel place where they usually have the equipment to clean and test injectors)

I removed the air box to get in there better. Once all that stuff and the PS pump is set aside, it's easier to reach in.

The lower bolts I had to do with a box end wrench. Got a feel for the torque, tested on one I could check with a torque wrench, then did the lower ones by hand.

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You must get the head clean.. real clean, no stuck on stuff left. Then use some form-a-gasket Copper. A very thin (suntan lotion thin) smear on the block and header will help get a good seal. You don't want so much it oozes out.

I still havd to go back and tighten the bolts at least two more times.

One trick before you put the intake/exhaust back on is to make sure the gasket doesn't stick into the flow. If it does just cut it back.

Reply to
DougW

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