More slave cyl questions

Got the new slave from the parts store today. It's looks the same except for a few differences. It does NOT employ the straps, or any other kind of retention device.. I'm guessing that if I don't move it, it should be OK?

Also, it does not have the bleed line or main input line. It has the fittings, and some cheesey looking "U" Bolts to hold the lines on. Apparently I am supposed to re-use my old lines? Does this sound correct? It is Raybestos PN:SC37915.

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The picture clearly shows both the lines and the straps, but I understand that the picture may not represent the actual product.

I REALLY dont want to do this job a third time.

Help?

Carl

Reply to
Carl Saiyed
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Reply to
Robb S via CarKB.com

Reply to
Robb S via CarKB.com

I took the page in to get the discount to 116.99. I also had them check all

4 of the ones they had in stock, all were identical. The instructions make references to the straps.

I can see on the new one where the concentric bearing is stopped by a piece of sheet metal at the end of the sleeve that rides on the input shaft. It looks like the straps would just keep the end of the bearing from shearing off that little piece of sheet metal if the clutch pedal was pushed without the pressure plate in place to hold it in the proper position.

Carl

posted......possible

Reply to
Carl Saiyed

go back to your last post, and read what bill and another person wrote about the straps.......I think that was your problem. They are supposed to be tied up when you assemble it to prevent damage......

Carl Saiyed wrote:

Reply to
Robb S via CarKB.com

Reply to
Robb S via CarKB.com

Spent 4 hours under my Jeep today. Pulled the trans, replaced the slave, re-installed the trans. Got everything all buttoned up nice and neat, new slave bled, ect, went to test drive 'er and it just cranks over. :-(. I got the CPS wire caught in the bellhousing. Pulled most of it out, I'll have to re-wire it tomorrow, as I was just too tired tonight. Will any remaining pieces cause more headaches for me?

I can now RnR an AX-5 in my sleep.

Carl

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Reply to
Carl Saiyed

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

What a drag.....

You 'really' don't want a shim between the bell housing and the engine....

That would do bad things for the life of the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing and clutch plates.

If the slave/throwout isn't perfectly lined up it can dig/vibrate into the nose cone of the tranny. This will cause it to eventually hang up and get eaten away. Mine did this because the previous owner used the clutch pedal as a foot rest which made a slight ding in the nose piece the bearing slides on and the result was a totally eaten throw out bearing and pressure plate 'fingers' in a year.

When I replaced it, the printing was still clear on both faces of the clutch friction pad.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Carl Saiyed wrote:

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Reply to
Mike Romain

Even the width of the wires is a problem? Wow..

Carl

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Reply to
Carl Saiyed

Think about the GM starters and how small a shim they need to either work or grind....

It might be just fine, but man..... If it was mine I would make sure I got the sucker out. It's just no fun having to open them up and spend more money on burned parts right away....

Mike

Carl Saiyed wrote:

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Reply to
Mike Romain

I feel your pain, I am in the middle of swapping an AX-15 in to replace the Peugeot, couldn't find the correct pilot bearing, so I went to a friends and milled a bronze bushing on his lathe - I got home and installed the transmission, (by myself, no fun) quit for the night, and when I woke up, I realized I hadn't lubed that pretty new bushing we made. At least I hadn't put the T-case back on yet!

Tookie - Denham Springs, LA

88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10s
Reply to
Tookie

LOL. When I made the same swap, I also had to turn down a stock pilot bushing - inner bore was perfect for the pilot shaft but the outside was .015 too big. Got in a hurry, then remembered to pack the bearing cavity. I have always used wheel bearing grease to fill the cavity (works fine for me) but this time the clearance was so tight in the pilot shaft that it air locked as I inserted it. Like to never got that sucker to finally slide home.

I hope you made the external slave switch while you were at it - that step is well worth the trouble!

Reply to
Will Honea

Hey you should of talked to me first, I went through this a couple years ago swapping the AX15 in, and yes me too, wrong pilot bearing, I was ready to have a freind mill one too but tried another store that showed two for my year so I ordered them both and one was the right one. Did you use oil impregnated bronze? I went through the whole thing too, found that is what is used, found I could buy it, something like 20 bucks a foot.

Reply to
Greg

The clutch on my 1991 Jeep Wrangler 4 Cyl quit working because of the slave cyliner having air in it there is no place to bleed it what do I do?

Reply to
Jeep1313

There has to be a place to let the air out..... It is usually a second line there somewhere.

Is that the internal or external slave?

I was told that some of the newer styles have no bleeder so you are supposed to just pump the crap out of the Master until all the bubbles come up, but I think that is only on the newer TJ's, not sure though.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeep1313 wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

External is '94 and newer. For the '91 internal slave there is a bleeder fitting on the outside of the bell housing. Haynes says "right (passenger's) side of the transmission housing on four cylinder models". The photo shows it towards the back of the clutch housing, to the side of the transmission.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

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