Shackles

But you just defined FORCE, not TORQUE. There is a difference you=20 know. I presume you know.

The only way you can get TORQUE on a shackle is to have=20 completely frozen shackle bolts in the bushings.

I'd also suggest that YOUR force model is completely backward.=20 The L> You really can't see the leverage exerted on the length of spring

It would be so easy to make an experiment to show you with pictures, like place the one single leaf spring with the eyes on the floor and stand on the eyes and say that spring supports me four inches off the floor at both ends then bolt a lever hinge to each end hinged again in the middle then stand on it as if it were a frame and one exaggerated (longer) shackle then you would see my same weight would smash the spring to the floor. Very easy buy you're not worth going out the the garage. Maybe, take a course mechanical drafting may enlighten you with the relationship objects have with each other.

Main Entry: 2torque Function: noun Etymology: Latin torquEre to twist 1 : a force that produces or tends to produce rotation or torsion ; also : a measure of the effectiveness of such a force that consists of the product of the force and the perpendicular distance from the line of action of the force to the axis of rotation 2 : a turning or twisting force

I use the same 1" longer Confer shackles with the RE extreme duty 4" springs. No problems. Using longer than stock shackles with factory springs I wouldn't recommend.

I do believe Confer also makes a heavy duty stock length replacement shackle too. This might be an option for him.

Here is one way to think on it.....

The spring has an arch in it with one end fixed. Say it has a 2" shackle.

Put the spring under compression and the moving end can only go 2" until the arch in the spring comes under serious stress. This means the arch can only straighten out 2" and means some of the U shape is retained.

Now put 6" shackles on it and compress the spring. The spring now can get 6" longer which can completely flatten the spring and allow it to even pass flat to reverse arch.

It does not take too many flexes past flat center to take the arch out of a chunk of spring steel.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Roy J wrote:

It will settle down as the suspension flexes.

Yes it settled after a bit of a drive around the block. I plan on keeping the beefed up shackles but I will be reducing the length and will of course redrill them to be of stock length from bolt hole to bolt hole.

Thanks aga>It will settle down as the suspension flexes.

Well, at least you didn't use the word 'torque' in your latest=20 explination! Progress is being made.

Putting the spring on the garage floor is not relevant, the=20 spring operates with a free swingling shackle on one end, not=20 with friction against the floor. Of course if your shackle eye is=20 frozen solid, you get a different answer.

The springs on a YJ have much less arch than a CJ, the entire=20 discussion is quite moot since the total length change in the=20 spring between factory stock normal ride and full bumper stop=20 compression is only half an inch or so. (The angle of the shakle=20 is always AWAY from the spring (overrun) not towards the spring=20 like you see on a CJ.

Cheers.

L.W.(=DFill) Hughes III wrote:

shi$^% no, Im with bill Longer shackles WILL flatten your springs. Be fn smart and relize it. Nick