Stuck Rotor

DANFXR did pass the time by typing:

Use PB Blaster. WD40 won't do squat. Tap around the edge from the engine side and from top, bottom, front, back. Just lots of taps. tap.tap.tap.tap.tap. Sometimes they get a bit tight around the hub, but usually discs just pop off. Keep hitting it with PB blaster or some other penetrating lube (besides WD-40) and whacking on it. Your not going to hurt the hub unless you wail on it with a sledge. It takes far more abuse from daily driving than you can put on it with a mallet. :)

Sometimes heating the hat up with a torch will help, but watch out as many things around there tend to react poorly to open flame.

I think my #1 most used item in the toolbox is Liquid Wrench. The only time it's failed me yet (after giving time) is one carriage bolt on my rear seat that had to be torched, drilled, and finally cold chiselled off (not fun!). I'm currently soaking the wiper motor gear assembly in some right now since my "wiper problem" post from before was because the damn gear is seized (motor works fine thankfully). Hopefully by tomorrow it should be loose.

Liquid Wrench is great stuff and has worked wonders for me. Ditto PB Blaster. But the best all time stuck part solution is Break Free CLP, available anywhere firearms are sold.

Regards,

DAve

DANFXR did pass the time by typing:

Actually after reading what you wrote again I have a question.

When you say "hammer" do you mean a wood type claw hammer? If so, those are only made for nails. To move stuck parts you need a tool more like this.

"dead blow hammer" will transfer much more energy.

I'd argue a bit on your choice of hammers. A dead blow hammer has a relatively soft face, is designed to move machinery parts without damage. But these rotors get stuck on so tight that you need a "BFH". A

16 oz carpenter hammer is a joke. I normally use a 2-1/2 pound "cross pein" blacksmith hammer. This has a hardened steel face that will definately do some serious damage to the rotor but is the only thing that delivers enough instanteneous MOMENTUM to the situation. I also have a "drilling hammer" that has a 12" long handle, useful for confined spaces. And for the really tough jobs, I have a 6 pound sledge that arrived in the shop with a broken handle, reset it with a 12" long handle. That baby is a serious contender.

BTW: The usual comments about safety: I was us> DANFXR did pass the time by typing:

When you reinstall the rotor, make sure both mating surfaces are squeeky clean and flat (no rust bumps). Coat the face of the axle shaft with a VERY thin layer of aluminum anti-seize compound. No more stck rotors.

Don't put very much on, or it will sling outwards and cause trouble.

John

John Davies TLCA 14732

'96 Lexus LX450 '00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro Spokane WA USA

RoyJ did pass the time by typing:

Yep. The reason I suggest a dead blow type is they won't shatter cast material like a steel hammer will.

Smooshed my fingers several times while slinging shingles. Now I use a bit of cardboard to hold small nails and a hand guard on chisels.

John Davies did pass the time by typing:

Yep.. just a teeny blob smeared around to cover the surface.

Where trouble = contaminated brake shoes. :O Actually the hat should protect the inside and even though you can put it on the face (wheel side) I've never seen a rotor frozen to a wheel. :)

Speaking of that, when your done with putting the rotor on make sure you remove all traces of lube and fingerprints with something like Brakeclean. Just keep it off any plastic and use gloves/eye protection, it's harsh on skin.

DougW did pass the time by typing:

Heh. :)

All the way to Venezuela to look at an English description of a product.

Yay Google!

I have seen aluminum Cherokee rims electrically welded to the face of the hub. Several times. To the point of new rims needed....

I use antiseize on the wheel side faces of the hubs/drums or rotors now.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

I use a product called coppaslip on the front of hubs - its like a high melting point grease with copper particles in it, or just ordinary grease if I don't have it. Works great.

The company I work for makes a nice chisel handle in our safety products group:

Shawn

Error:

The HAHTsite Scenario Server reports the following: The requested application session has timed out

OK, where exactly are you guys getting PB Blaster? I've tried CDN Tire, Piston Ring, Princess Auto, Walmart and no luck.