The Leak Goes On...

My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was new. The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then traded it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to replace the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before it started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at around

45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which time I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as the new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it immediately leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!

Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around. Neither is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl head and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's leaking.

When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage behind the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily, and the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine. I sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.

The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the back of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!

Reply to
Jerry McG
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I can't think of a way to do this on an engine that is assembled, but when I put an engine together I normally put a small bead of RTV in the groove of the seal that mates with the "rib" on the main cap and the block. As soon as the cap is installed, I turn the crank a few revolutions to let the seal center itself (not sure if it is necessary or not, but I do it). This will prevent the seepage from behind the seal. If its not coming from there, then, like you said, you probably have an oil plug leaking, but if you change the seal and it stops for a while, It would make sense that it is the seal.

Chris

Reply to
c

Well, it used to stop for a3while, but now the %$#^er just kept on leakin'. I suppose the only way to know for sure what's really going on is to pull the trans.

Reply to
Jerry McG

Reply to
Steve G

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three other journals.

Great feedback, thanks!

Reply to
Jerry McG

No, that's one you triple check before buttoning it up. As I recall, it will only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.

Reply to
Jerry McG

i would definitely check the bearing cap then. i had to loosen 3 caps when i did mine too...

Reply to
serg

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