Thoughts on Duralast products?

May 12, 2014 2 Replies

Gotta redo the brakes before I don't have any....



Looking at AutoZone. The kits really are the same no matter where you buy them so it's down to the pads/shoes.



Yea.. The add for Duralast almost pisses me off enough that I want to buy from someone else.



So it's Duralast Gold Cmax pads for the front and regular Duralast shoes for the back.



Will probably replace the rear drums (cheap enough) and I won't have to mess with turning them.



Wondering about rebuilding the calipers and pistons. The ones in there aren't leaking but they are old. (21 years old)



Hoses probably need to be done. I've seen older hoses still holding up but really what is the replacement cycle on those things?



Of course new fluid and full flush. No sense in pushing old fluid back up the line.


"DougW" wrote in news:lkpbam$ger$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Personally I've used Duralast pads and shoes with no problems other than some of the lower cost / quality parts tend to be a bit grabby in the rain or cold.

If you can, I'd go up one price level if you are looking at the lowest-buck stuff for that reason.

As for wear, I'm super gentle on brakes and can get more than advertised mileage from the lower cost brands.

One tip: Scrub the face of the shoes and pads with 60 grit sandpaper till the gloss is gone and rinse the dust off with brake cleaner.

This cuts down on glazing and shortens break-in time.

Budd

Yea, that's the CMax line of pads. The rest only comes in one quality. Odd are the guts don't need replacing, but I figure while in there it's only $20 in parts so why not. Beats needing the stuff and not having it.

Almost typed that.. I usually just buzz the pads with the jitterbug and blow them off. Now the better pads come with beveled edges, before that I'd grind the edges of the pad, that really helped cut down on noise. The drums I hit with a scotchbrite and brake-kleen.

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