Torque Curve for 88 Wrangler

Welcome to the wild world of larger tires.

You need to regear now to return the torque curve to its original location. I suggest 4.10s because this ratio will work well up to 32" tires before you start to see this problem again.

Wow, you sound like you have some power or tune up issues.

I have been told that the engine peaks the timing advance around 2300 rpm and 2300 seems to be a real 'sweet spot' for my engine.

It will just haul out fast from 2300 and hold almost any hill at that rpm. It drops off power real fast at lower rpm under load though unless I am down in the hundreds, it pulls at 400 rpm on pit walls just fine.

My 5th at 65 mph is only 1750 rpm and it runs like a pig there. 4th is

I am running 33's with 3.31 gears in my 86. I don't have the emissions computer in the loop though and my CJ didn't need a CAT when new so I have a straight pipe back to a Dynomax turbo muffler. I also have an Accel SuperCoil in there for a hotter spark. The rest is stock on a light 'glass CJ7.

It sounds like you are in a strange limbo for gear ratios at regular speeds, but dropping down when in 4th at 2850 rpm means tune up issues to me.

Could you have a partially blocked air or gas filter? Is your gas filter in right side up? That filter has two outlets, the center one goes to the carb and the top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't at the top gas can syphon back to the tank when it sits making it a bugger to cold start and at high speed the gas pump pretty much matches the engine needs so if some is going back to the tank it can starve the engine.

Mike

snipped-for-privacy@us.army.mil wrote:

Well this morning, after driving to work, I checked under the hood because I had heard an fairly loud hissing noise when I applied gas. Looking in the air cleaner I discovered a lot of oil that had come in the backside of the air cleaner. In fact the brand new air cleaner on that side was soaked and the oil was puddled about 1/4 inch deep in the back. Some was even dripping out the air intake of the air cleaner. I had just had the engine tuned with new plugs, wires, dist. cap, fuel filter, and PCV valve. When I showed it to the mechanic that did the work, he checked out the catalytic converter and discovered that it was quite damaged, as he could hear the ceramic inside rattling around when he shook it. His theory is that the converter is restricting airflow and therefore I guess causing back pressure which is causing the oil to come in from the backside of the air cleaner. I guess this sounds reasonable and could result in lack of power, and besides that, he recommeded a place other than his to do the converter work since they could do it cheaper than he could. Any thoughts? Maybe he owns the other shop, too!

I'd bet money you have a Vac leak...I've been down this road so many times it not even funny. I doubt your cat has anything to do with your problem.

Brian

That could be very likely a problem.

I don't know the relation to back pressure and 'blow by' but a partially blocked cat is for sure a power killer. I would really suspect that from your symptoms.

The 'normal' reason for the oil blowing into the air filter in that engine is a worn out emissions or charcoal canister. It is at the age where they up and die.

I would first get the cat fixed and see if the oil blow immediately stops. If it doesn't, then you can trace the PCV line to the rear of the carb making sure the rubber elbow at the back isn't soft and mushy so it can collapse. Then at the rear of the carb, there will be a solenoid thing or preferably a T fitting with one line going way down under the washer bottle to the charcoal canister.

At idle pinch this line to the canister closed. If the idle changes, the canister purge valve is worn out and you need a new canister.

The canister is only supposed to purge when the engine is hot and at speed. The 'on' signal is ported vacuum via the CTO valve.

Mike

snipped-for-privacy@us.army.mil wrote: