Valve Spring Replacment - 97 Wrangler

You can use something like venetian blind cord with a stick tied on one end as a T handle to fill the cylinder through the plug hole, then turn the crank so the piston comes up on the cord to hold the valves in place and do it from the top. Leave the wood handle outside the engine. ;-)

Then you just need something to compress the springs. Most auto parts places will loan tools around here so a spring compressor would be handy. Basically a C-clamp vise grip is one type.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mick Miller wrote:

The head does not need to come off, you cycle the engine so both valves are closed in one cylinder. Hook up an air line to the cylinder put in about

125-150 psi, remove rocker arm for that cylinder, use a valve spring compressor remove valve keepers and you are there. Also I would recommend new valve stem oil seals while you are there.

What is noisy isn't the springs but the lifters.

Bill is right on target here.

The head does not need to come off, you cycle the engine so both valves are closed in one cylinder. Hook up an air line to the cylinder put in about

125-150 psi, remove rocker arm for that cylinder, use a valve spring compressor remove valve keepers and you are there. Also I would recommend new valve stem oil seals while you are there.

with the exception of this spring compressor tool. These things are worthless in my opinion. I still have one I bought that I could never get to work at all. I like the lever type spring compressor. These are fast and simple once your cylinder is filled with air.

bill

so do they need replaced or can they ber adjusted, never doen much work on jeeps.

I believe they put a bad batch of springs into a few of the engines.

I 'think' Jerry B changed the springs in his for the same reason.

The lifters are just fine and are not adjustable.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mick Miller wrote:

I changed my valve springs to cure a bad recurring misfire that was caused by a bad batch of valve springs in most '97 and some '98 4.0L engines. The misfire caused the engine to run roughly and light the Check Engine light but it didn't cause noisy valves. And as Mike said, the valves are hydraulically actuated and are thus non-adjustable.

Jerry

Mike Roma> I believe they put a bad batch of springs into a few of the engines. >

The only way valve springs can make noise is if they're broken. If that's the case, noise will be the least of your worries.

More likely lifters are the cause. I think I'd try an additive like "Lifter Free" before replacing them. Might save a few bucks if it works.

The valve spring replacement that others have referenced here was only a part of the fix for misfire problems. The actual problem was carbon buildup on the exhaust valves causing them to be "slow to close", thus causing a misfire. Stronger valve springs were to help overcome this problem.

i am no getting a missfire.

no smoke no loss of power...other than a bit of throttle crispness

........just this tappet like noise when reved ......

L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III did pass the time by typing:

That defines what was bugging me for a long time till the weld at the lower union gave me a big smily on day.

I do think i do have a small crack pn the header pipe aswell, but the tappet noise i am hearing is from the head.

nice pic