Weber conversion stud problem

Michael,

I broke off two of mine trying to get them out. I had to drill them out and re-tap.

You might try heating the manifold with a propane torch.

Good luck with them.

Mark

Hot damn! (At least I think that is the technical term for :: Success!!)

Thanks to each who posted suggestions.

I tried several things. Details below for anybody who cares to see what it took.

So two follow up questions, please:

1 -- Now that it is time to put in the new studs should I use anything at all on the threads? Any lubricant; any sealer; anything? Anything that will help or be harmful? Or should I just place the new studs in dry? 2 -- The new studs are completely threaded from one end to the other. I assume I must double nut them to get them back in, right? Then how tight; how far do I try to get the new studs into the manifold?

How I did it:

1: Got some PB Blaster. Every 1/2 hour or so when I could - from yesterday to this afternoon - I applied more on each stud and rapped on each stud with a hammer.

2: Went to Sear's and bought their "Stud Remover". It looks like this tool might work well for slightly larger studs, but was useless for these.

3: Cleaned up all the oil and flammables as best I could in the target area. Put heat on the aluminum only. Tried double nutting -- nothing. Nuts would always turn prior to stud breaking loose.

4: Took a third nut and tightened it down to the top nut. Heated aluminum again -- turned very hard on the first stud -- with a fairly loud "crack" it broke loose and threaded out with just my fingers.

5: Repeated my "triple nutting" technique on the remaining studs. Each was easier than the previous one and, by the time I got to the fourth I didn't even have to apply additional heat.

So one more big sigh of appreciation to each of you!!

Mike

----- Michael Pomeroy snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com

Looks like I'm again stopped.

Appears as if the conversion kit contains incorrect studs.

The replacement studs are threaded quite differently. They are "completely" threaded, which is not a problem and is required in the conversion -- but they will not thread into the manifold; nor will the nuts that came with them thread onto the old studs (which they would have to do if the threading were the same).

(btw: the new studs are required because the new base plate has threads that are like the new studs .. so the old studs are not compatible and will not work.)

You can see detailed comparison stud photos at:

This Weber conversion kit was purchased from 4WD and says it is for "Jeep Models Originally equipped with the Carter 2BBL BBD Carburetor

1978-1990". I'm the original owner, so I know this vehicle has not been modified

So Jeep isn't going anywhere now; I guess my next step is to call 4WD.

Any suggestions as to who might carry correctly (completely) threaded studs of the proper length like these?

Any other thoughts or suggestions are appreciated ....

Mike

----- Michael Pomeroy snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com

Success! Thanks so much to people who offered good suggestions!!

Cranked up immediately and ran better than before; though the tune is certainly wrong for the new setup; flatspots and loss of power are gone!! (Year old gas probably doesn't help much either?!)

I know ignorance isn't an excuse, but maybe it is an explanation.

The new pieces (plural) don't go together like the old piece (singular); and I was fixated on how the old one had come apart.

I figured there must be something that "I" was missing, so I laid all the parts from disassembly and all the parts from the new conversion kit out on the garage floor -- got what instructions came with the kit, and began "playing around".

In hindsite the instructions were accurate, if not entirely clear.

Here is the deal:

The old carb sat on a single spacer/adaptor. Stud's held this adaptor to the intake manifold; passing up through the base of the carburetor where nuts held the entire assembly in place.

With this particular conversion kit, the Weber sits on a two piece spacer/adaptor with three gaskets. The first adaptor attaches to the manifold with "allen head bolts". These "bolts" are countersunk in the adaptor on the top side so they remain flush. The second plate attaches on top of and to the first plate with different "four mounting studs", also allen head. Into this second plate the studs (that's what the instructions call them) or threaded rods (you can see both at:

) are placed. Thenthe carb itself is set on these four; secured with nuts and washers. Hope this all made sense to anybody who is interested -- and thanks for the help.

Mike

----- Michael Pomeroy snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com