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Re: weber conversion/nutter bypass problem

Ouch, what did you do to the vacuum lines?

If the CTO is dead or not there and you have a dirty air filter on the charcoal canister, it will act like it ran out of gas. Let it sit for a while then it will run again for a short time. Opening the gas cap is a quick fix for that.

The computer is still there, it still controls the tach on a YJ.

I don't know about the auto. Some 'might' have a vacuum shift module on them.

I would likely be looking at the distributor cap or something else if it ran good for a while.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Rich Piers>

Did the weber conversion and nutter bypass last week or so. While on the > way home the other nite my son pulled up to a stop sign and it died. This > was during the storm/hurricane we had here. Jeep starts up fine but as soon > as you put it into D or R it dies. Checked the vac lines and found one > loose one, no change except for the idle back up to ~800. We strapped it to > a friends house and it has been sitting for 3 days and with scheduling we > have not been able to spend more than about 20 min on it, going to look at > it today. The only thing we did different on the conversion was not to use > the CTO which he is saving up for now. > Does the auto tranny in a 89YJ interact with the motor at all in an > electrical sense or vacumn sense. > Computer is out as I understand it with the nutter bypass or is it ?? > > RichP
Reply to
Mike Romain
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My 84 did the same thing.... when it warmed up it went into the limp home mode.... that was after the nutter bypass and webber carb.... mine wound up being the intake manifold sucking air after it heated up.... my exhaust manifold was warped and would not let the intake sit flush.... so I installed a Borla header and now it runs great....

DGann

Reply to
DGann

THe carb conversion and the nutter are independent of each other. I did both on mine and did have to play around with the vac lines. But then again it's a manual tranny. The fact that you can idle fine with the auto and as soon as you put it in drive it dies would indicate either your idle is too low, or the idle speed sensor is bad - which you ain't got at your year of Jeep. Hate to sound wishy washy, but check all your vac lines again, and do the CTO!!

Reply to
Jeepaholic

Yes, he just got the jeep home sunday nite, says he had to let it warm up for 5 minutes before he could put it in "D", then it seemed to be OK. We have to do alot of stuff on it this weekend, flush, new radiator, hoses, hood hold downs and I'm ordering a CTO this morning so that I can hook it up the way that page shows that Mike Romain had posted.

If you can could you take a look at your vac ball, ours has two nipples on it, neither of which is connected to anything. It was never connected since we got it last year so thats nothing new. I used my mighty vac and the it seems to be OK so I might was well use it. What I need to know is which side gets the vacum supply, the one in the center of the ball or the one thats offset from the center.

"Jeepaholic" wrote in news:oDwbb.2136$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Reply to
Rich Pierson

That vacuum ball is for the front axle vacuum motor. How does the vehicle go into 4x4 now?

I don't have a YJ or I would check the connections for you.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Rich Piers>

Reply to
Mike Romain

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