Wheel Bearings

Easy, you just go buy a whole new hub and bolt it on. Well, the three bolts and hub can be a bugger to get off depending on rust levels.

That is all you can do for it, there are no serviceable parts in the hub unless you own a machine shop.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Joe Carroll wrote:

The front wheel bearings are "unit bearings" and are not repackable or serviceable for all practical purposes. But they're well sealed so they generally outlast conventional bearings.

Jerry

Joe Carroll

2K-TJ

There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer

The vibration from the tire going bad likely had a bunch to do with the bearing going bad....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Joe Carroll wrote:

As for taking care of the bearings, listen to what Mike R. said about "bugger to take off" If you live in the rust belt, you may find that after you subract the $130 or so for a new assembly, the labor may not be quite so tough to swallow. Several of us have spent 4 to 8 hours trying to get a single hub off.

Cheers.

Joe Carroll wrote:

I'm taking your advice but dropping it off at Burnsville Off-road. I trust those guys to tell me if in fact it's really bad ...and charging me less than $350.00 if is.

Joe Carroll

Thanks to all for your help

Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs quickly. I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested. Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors. I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub from coming out too far. I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side. Sounds good doesn't it! I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this method out!

I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a grease nipple for regreasing the bearings. I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time to play around.

later, dave AKA vwdoc1 Living in the rust belt

FOUND IT!!

Not hit, but PRY! ;-)

Here is Derrick's info:

1) remove axle nut. 2) jack the front tires off the ground...place jack stands under the front axle. 3) remove the two brake caliper bolts. 4) remove the three unitized bearing bolts. 5) place a long pry bar (3 or 4 feet long) in between the rim (still attached to the unitized bearing) and the tie rod bracket on the steering knuckle. Give 2 or 3 hard pulls and the bearing will pop out of the steering knuckle. 6) use an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts, and then remove the rim and tire. 7) remove the brake caliper. 8) remove the unitized bearing. The first time my unitized bearings were removed, it took Rudy 5 minutes to do both sides. After doing this 3 or 4 times, it now only takes me about 10 minutes to do both sides. In my opinion, it is by far the quickest way to get the unitized bearings off the axle. Derek

I would modify, or at least I would try this on mine. NOT to fully remove axle nut (I would loosen and snug back down) so as to not possibly damage hub assembly, and to keep the unitized bearing bolts loosely installed, but do all the rest of those steps. Really makes it sound fast and easy!!! I don't know if I can R&I both sides in 10 minutes though! lol

later, dave AKA vwdoc1

No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose. Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either done it or has seen it done! ;-)

later, dave AKA vwdoc1

I have seen those hubs on tight enough that the method outlined would likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.

The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.

I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:

hmmm OK & thanks for the warning, but what is the official method? later, dave AKA vwdoc1

The book says to gently tap the hub while extracting it or something to that effect. When I put antisieze on the hub rim, it comes out just like the book says. It's the first pull that is the bugger if you are in the salt belt. If you aren't in a place that rusts like crazy, a side tap with a hammer might do it.

I have one sacrificial bolt that fits the hub. I put it in half way, cut the steering to the side so I have room to swing and whale on it with a Big hammer. I then move the bolt to the rear and cut the wheel the other way and whale on it there. This will eventually break it free.

I have used an ax to get it going. I set the edge at the ear where the bolt fits and hit it with a hammer. I have heard a putty knife works too. Once the hub has cracked loose, it will come out, just cracking it loose is a real bugger sometimes.

Mike

dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:

Yeah that is how I have done it in the past. On my parents 88 XJ I actually damaged/warped the hub due to the rust that locked the bearing to the knuckle and also to the axle shaft. UGLY since I had to use my 20 ton press to get the axle shaft and hub assembly apart! antiseized almost everything on them from now on.

I have a sacrificial spare wheel to use now and try the quick method! lol Maybe I will do my U-Joint next week, but I had that assembly aloose 2-3 years ago so it will probably be easy anyway.

thanks, dave AKA vwdoc1