Tire Pressure

No. It can just cause more wear in the center of the tire because the outside edges don't touch the road in a straight drive.

Scalloping is due to bad balance or bad shocks. Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Joe Carroll wrote:

Thanks Mike. Joe Carroll

2K-TJ

There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer

Mike Any recommendations for new shocks on an un lifted 2000 wrangler sport that spends most of it's time on the street? Joe Carroll

2K-TJ

There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer

Unless you are running the exact factory supplied tire on a vehicle, you can forget the factory recommended pressure and use it as a starting point. This is more dramatic with older vehicles. The modern tires for my 60's vehicles are recommended by their manufacturers to be run at different pressures than the old style tires. I just put a set of 13s on my 82 Jetta that are recommended to run at 51 PSI (factory 28-32PSI), and they both ride great and are wearing fine at 50 PSI. My Golding running Avon Venom X tires is set at max of 42PSI, but the same tires on my lightweight Triumph are best at

24PSI. Most tire makers will give you a corrected pressure based upon your vehicle, type of driving, and vehicle weight, and that is still only a starting point to be experimented with.

No, it'll cause them to wear in the center.

All of what Paul says may be true, if not overly complicated.

If one is going to use a Rule of Thumb, the best and easiest Rule of Thumb is to put in 30 psi, then adjust from there.

I have to disagree strongly though on what the Tire Makers will give you. They will ONLY give you the max pressure ant the max loading, they will not give you anything else. Okay, "some" might give more information, but they are the exception rather than the rule.

The best and most reliable Starting Point for a passenger car or light truck is 30psi. Your mileage may vary.

I can reccoments shocks NOT to get. Do not get Gas filled shocks.

That could be. I have only called makers regarding motorcycle tires, and found Avon, Bridgestone, and Dunlop to be quite helpful. On 4 wheel vehicles I use experience to guess my own best settings, plus some chalk and a temp gun.

I was referring to the Jeep recommended tire pressure that's listed on the door. The vehicle came with 215/75R15 tires with a recommendation of 33psi cold. I changed to 30+9.5 15 and the tire people put 33lbs in them also. When I checked a similar jeep that came with 30+9.5 15 the door sticker from jeep recommended 29psi cold. These tires feathered out after about three months and I was just trying to determine the cause. The shocks don't seem to be in bad shape and I've set the toe -in to 1/8 myself. The tires are Duller AT Revos which are great except for the wap,wap wap sound the tires now make. I understand that off road tires will make more noise but that noise should be a consistent sound, not a variable. Thanks for all the help/comments Joe Carroll

2K-TJ

There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer

Who make the old style (non pressurized) shocks?

FWIW, I have Dueler Revos on both my XJ & YJ, and they are quite quiet. I would recommend a complete 4 wheel alignment since you have altered the physics of the suspension with oversize tires. Bad ball joints and front suspension parts can also cause cupping and feathering, as well as a bent frame.

Why? I have been satisfied with the Bilsteins on my rig for 15 years. I would love to replace them with Edelbrock's IAS, but wont do it until I wear the Bilsteins out.

Ok, how do I get a complete 4 wheel alignment on a 2000 TJ when the only setting to work on is the toe_in? Joe Carroll

2K-TJ

There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are." Joseph Duemer

That raises a question. What are the alignment issues with the track bar going REALLY bad? Just looking at it, a bad track bar will let the axle shift out of alignment with the rear wheels. The axles should still be parallel but I can see that there might be some scuffing in turns - but does a bad track bar cause any noticable tire wear?

I found out > FWIW, I have Dueler Revos on both my XJ & YJ, and they are quite quiet. I

Doesch Tech and Bilstein, to name two. Rancho makes a hydraulic shock too. That's three.

Any good alignment shop or frame shop should be able to do it. They make sure the front wheels align with the rear wheels and the frame. Some frames are bent/warped right out of the box, and the owners fight tire wear problems until it is straightened hydraulically. This is what they should routinely do after an accident. But it should be done if you have oversized tires or a lift. There is a lot more to proper alignment than toe-in/out, and I would assume there would have to be ways to adjust caster, camber, etc. on your vehicle. If not, get used to tire wear with anything other than stock tire sizes.