Pulling the wire sends it full scale, otherwise it tends to twitch to full scale erratically every now and then. Wiring looks clean. Engine ground OK, but bypassed anyway as a test--no help. Factory oil filter replaced about a month ago, twitch didn't appear until about 2 days ago.
Do I need to drain the oil before swapping that thing or is there a check valve behind it? For 13 bucks I'll swap it before I'll bother pressure testing the pump.
Lon did pass the time by typing:
That's exactly what mine was doing before it just started staying between
70 and 80 psi. I thought about taking it out and flushing with carb cleaner but like you say, the replacement is cheap.Draining isn't necessary. When I did mine there might have been a few drips to wipe up but that was it.
I did put a little bit of thread sealant on the last few threads just to stop any oil leaks.
DougW proclaimed:
Thanks Doug
It looks like it has a fairly low value on the pita scale...not as young as I was last year.
Hardest part of the job is trying to get the new sensor to start and thread, it has fine threads on a very slight taper. The second hardest part will be finding a bottle opener for the CORONA that follows. :)
Snow...
How do you open the bottles while you are driving?
I never said a word about drinking while driving, I asked how you opened the beer bottles while driving with the opener bolted to the front bumper....
It has pretty fine threads, but the new sensor came with a whitish gunk along the back of the threads and went in rather easily except for there being just enough room to barely get a wrench on the darned thing, and not quite enough room to move that wrench.
Snow proclaimed:
Drive real fast. Throw the bottle real hard--but just right--to the front of the car, skillfully raking it past the opener at the perfect angle. Then wait until it comes back towards you as your vehicle catches up with it.
billy ray proclaimed:
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